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How? Serious question! Here's a rough, all be it, estimated breakdown based on DIY not garage: Head rebuild by local engineering shop - (depending on number of valves required) - £75-200 Head gasket - £33 Head Bolts - £13 Timing belt kit - £87 Consumable service items (Oil, filter, coolant) -...

Yes, Yes, and No Ignore the serpentine belt tool and simply remove the top bolt from the tensioner to release it and then use a large jubilee clip to do it back up. I use a Snap-On serp rachet when I do them but everytime i've attempted to use the 3/8 keyway on a tensioner they've snapped on...

Who did it go to? CTS - Coolant Temp Sensor ATS - Air Temp Sensor Personally, i'd advise you do not take it anywhere near a main dealer as they will use it as an excuse to extract all of your cash. Find decent diagnostics place in your area and they'll do the job for much less!

Everytime i've had a Clio II with an unplugged potentiometer it's held 2k rpm not 'WOT'

The flashing MIL denotes a level 2 fault meaning no generic ODB code is stored as non quite fit the bill. The fault is being flagged/flashed as it has the potential to damage the CAT. Most likely a wiring issue but you will need to get a tech have a look at the live data screen to see what's...

+1

Looks okay but don't expect ABS, SRS, UCH or any other system access other than generic ODBII engine code reading.

Engine swaps all greatly depend on the damage done; unless it's totally catastrophic damage making it un-economical to repair as I always prefer to rebuild rather than replace but that's an area for your man to asses and advise you on really. Either way, the new lump will need loads swapping...

Yeah by removing the top cover and timing plug and working the cam via the set point groove... I don't like that myself as you can damage things that way if something slips.

diagnostics needed - could be a pressure switch problem but it could be something else.

Don't worry about dropping a valve as i'm certain you won't walk this path but you should get the dephaser checked ASAP to be on the safe side - To check the dephaser requires the timing belt to be off and the pulley checked for 'play' as there should be no movement what so ever.

Sounds like dephaser yes but without wanting to scare you I recently had a customer car sound the similar and then the day before it was due to come in to have the pulley inspected this happened: Not sure what you're seeing? Maybe these will help! Get it checked ASAP is the best advice...

Is there any free play in the steering? The Mk1 Clio was plagued with broken universal joints at the bottom of the rack which made a clunking... this can be resolved by replacing the coloumn or by welding up the UJ. Check the rack to subframe mounting bushes aren't worn also as these allow the...

Correct, which is why the live data screen is an important one as it allows you to see if the ECM is seeing rotation or not thus letting you know if the CPS reading is being taken in to account. If the CPS isn't working due to say a sensor malfunction or a wiring fault then the ECM cannot tell...

I'd say allow for £450-600 to get the job done properly depending on the model version of Clio RS you have and whether or not it needs/wants a dephaser pulley. Honestly, avoid garages that say things like "Yeah, we'll have a go for £280" at all costs as it normally ends in tears and/or a poor...

Its a 10mm bolt on the side of the thermostat housing... see the finger below: Mick

Does the vehicles live data confirm the ECM is 'seeing' rotation when you crank it? Do all the various engine sensors have +12v? All fuses intact and no obvious signs of wiring faults such as broken earths or shorts to ground (That doesn't mean showing your arse to the world either ;) ) Mick

Yeah its easy when you know how however the K9K timing belt change is a real easy job which in truth, shouldn't cost the earth (I do them for £210 which I don't think is pricey) so what were you quoted? The cam timing pin for the DIY mechanic is a 7-8mm drill bit and the crank pin is the same...

From the sounds of it then you should have the running gear inspected for obvious faults - I've known wheel bearings on Megane Coupes, especially rears, give similar symptoms.

LoL - I wonder how many people saved that BMH

Sam, does it speed up with engine speed or inertia speed (eg. does it get faster with engine revs or does it continue when the clutch is dropped and you're coasting) as both Fred and myself have had this before with engine speed which turned out to be faulty 'Littens' timing belt tensioner...

Your timing will be out as stated above but only just... still, that's more than enough to stop a Diesel starting but I doubt its done major valvetrain damage. Stop driving it or attempting to drive it and get the timing correct - This time, use the correct tooling and most importantly of all...

you won't get a schematic off here bud... AutoData does have ECM "pin out" data though so tell him to do his job and read it ;) DMM's have this great feature that allows you to check a line in continuous between two points

yep, an electrical fault is the most likely cause; check all main earths as above and the 12v MCR's (Main Control Relays) in the engine bay fuse box as these buggers cause all kinds of annoying problems. Access to decent diagnostics will help speed the process along also. Mick

Chances of you getting this in a true schematic are slim to none i'm afraid as all wiring diagrams are part and parcel of Renaults Online system which you need to pay RTS for. Some software such as Vivid or AutoData may have general schematics but how accurate they are I can't tell you. I can...

That really is a shitter but technically you are screwed... though a cambelt should last a lot longer than 12 months and its not a nice way to treat customers either! Ask the garage for a breakdown of the estimate as £1k sounds a touch much to me and it would be handy to see exactly what...

I will need to look that one up Jonny... I've added it to my to do list so will PM you. Mick

Can I have the stripes... they're reet smart :o Personally, I think "Cup Spoiler" and leave it at that... nice looking motor!

Correct, the problem is likely to be something else that you've disturbed as the Clio II was still K-Line rather than multiwire Can-Bus. Have you had it plugged in to see what's causing the lights to come on?

That's what Jonny essentially said Var. This is because the refrigerant 'R134a' aka "Gas" has a yellow-ish colour which is a lubricating oil inside the rendered aerosol and the A/C system integrity requires the system to be run for a small period once a week to allow this 'oil' to fully...