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Don't run fuel inside the cabin area of the vehicle - If its the only thing you put on the outside/underside, make it this! Fred had the best tip IMO - Run the standard plastic "tank to engine bay" lines as it fits in the standard clips then replace the flexible sections that run to the fuel...

Silly question but are you sure you're reading it right? When the big hand points to 12... it means BAR not PSi. I'm more worried about #1 not reading anything at all... that's valve seal rather than ring seal. What prompted you to carry out a compression test in the first place?

yes, yes, yes and erm, yes! That's gonna upset the Evo and Subaru massif

8mm ID is fine yes.... aka "Dash eight"

With resistance values you want them to be as low as possible eg. as close to 0.00 Ohms as you're gonna get (But that's not going ot happen due to the wire construction itself). Normally a good stable Earth on a Clio would read around 0.01 - 0.05 Ohms. A wire brush, some copper grease and some...

That is only true of the cheap hose PSJ. If you buy a quality item, such as the Goodridge, I promise you the hose wil outlast you! Honestly, you try cutting the stuff to fit the connections and you see its not your typical butile rubber covered in a cheap stainless wire braid...

The Laguna II DCi's suffer with a similar problem which is normally to do with the boost pressure switch... hard to say without seeing the live data though. Could even be a boost leak or and actuator problem

Earth problem is the most likely cause. It could also be a genuine sensor or even a coolant system problem but start simple before getting really involved. Check the main ECM/Loom earth that is bolted to the front of the block just below the main coolant pipe to the rear of the waterpump...

I'll look it up later on the specific tech manual but i'm guessing the manual for the '730 you have is simply an 'update' of the earlier manuals and its proberbly a clerical error. I've always gone with an initial 20Nm then 120 degrees on the dial. The tensioner nut doesn't need threadlocking...

Yep, remove the spark plugs and then pour the oil in to the cylinders, one at a time, via the spark plug well... then repeat the test one cylinder at a time. You don't need too much oil though, just a teaspoon or two at most. Obviously it wil smoke a little to afterwards but don't worry as it...

That's not ideal then... I assume that was a 'dry' test and that you've not carried out a 'wet' test yet? If not, Pour a small volume of engine oil into each bore, one at a time, and repeat the compression test on that cylinder. If those readings increase, it shows there is wear in the...

live data readings will confirm/deny a fault on one of the two pedal tracks as the fault

Clio II 1.2 16v's are filled with wiring issues the most common of which are searchable on here but that aside you should still be able to access the ECM fault codes with diagnostic kit. Any idea what equipment was used?

If the sump had been knocked to the point of it causing an audible 'tap' it would most likely have cracked it dropping its oil everywhere... doubt it'll be this.

The Sensation looks ace and finally a HTC that makes me want to carry it around but I wonder how the battery will last? Just a pet hate of mine with these devices as I still don't get why no-one, with the one possible exception that is RIM, puts any emphasis on a genuine battery life anymore...

Agreed, it needs diags but a non-responsive 2k idle sounds like a throttle pedal connection issue.

As above, it needs a diagnostic to say for sure exactly where the fault lay but it is saying there's an issue with the TCS Program/System. It could be something as simple as a plug has high resistance and it just needs cleaning up or it could be the steering angle sensor needs replacing as the...

Clio III is electric... Clio II can be manual, hydraulic assist or electronic assist depending on type code and year of manufacture. It would help if we had the info but I'm betting its ePAS to. Either way it needs a proper diagnostic session on kit that can access more than just ECM, ABS and...

I'm not dismissing it being something like this BMH (Sorry, I don't know your name) but in truth we're all guessing as we can't see or hear the car properly to give a genuine diagnosis. Recordings are never ideal as they always over emphasize treble and an oil flush/change wouldn't make injector...

Rusted in then; spray some penetrating oil in the joint/carrier and leave it be whilst you go fora ciggie or a coffee. Come back and tap it out from the gearbox side.Failing that, unbolt the carrier from the rear of the block and tackle it off the car with a really big hammer set to...

I had these: On this: ... below 30mph it was annoying but maybe it was because the HiSpec setups use a Volvo pad(?)

DS2500's would be my choice for the money though I've used the Mintex C1144's to with good results (for slightly less cash to). Both are noisey at slow speed braking though and squeal like mad

You can't adjust the base idle as it's electronically governed... Remove or repair

Possibly a fault with the AC demand line to the ECM or even a compressor fault causing the belt run to drag a little more than it should. The system is designed to send a signal to the ECM via a specific line when you press the AC On button that tells the ECM to increase the idle speed to...

It'll be money well spent mate I promise you... shouldn't cost you anymore than £25-30 but make sure they do some work other than plugging in and reading off the code and going on the generic description as i've seen "Wheel sesnor" issues before that have turned out to be the main loom under the...

Have you had it properly diagnosed as an actual wheel sensor problem? I ask as replacing a sensor sometimes doesn't resolve the issue as the fault can be with the 'target' eg. a cracked reluctor ring or even a wing issue in the loom extension multiplugs. It could even be a problem with another...

Injectors can be noisey as per BMH's post above but I doubt they'd be that noisey that you could hear it as per the video but again that is just my opinion. Similarly, a faulty dephaser pulley can and does rattle from cold start and/or at idle speeds and whilst some make the car sound like a...

so the driveshaft has been removed from the hub but you're stuck on either extracting the bearing unit from the carrier OR the inner cv won't come off the sunwheel? Pull harder!

Ideally it needs to get plugged in for diagnostics but the coil packs on these aren't a great design and you tend to find moisture gets in around the rubber seals where the fly-leads come out of the actual coilpack. You can either buy a cheap autofactor unit for around £30 that will do the same...

The only "Sunwheel" on the gearbox, which incidentally is on the right (depending on how you look at it), is the splined output shaft for the drivers side driveshaft. As for the "stop guide" I don't honestly know what that relates to other than (possibly) the guide that the thrust release...