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LOL - Nope! Ask just about any Renault/Vauxhall/Nissan owner that has a 6 speed unit in their van/car if it whines in 1st-3rd and most will say yes. The JB/JC series boxes are great until they have torque forced thru them. The NDO's are the same which is why the DCi's and RS's eat them up and...

He can look at strengthening it all he likes. In the end the stronger internals will pass on the stress to the next weakspot in the assembly which is the casting... as seen when using gripper diffs and Avanti internals. In short you're either gonna be looking at a serious H pattern or sequential...

I'd wait for the new Elm329 myself as it has the new CanBus equiped chipset meaning it can access more modes and so access more systems than just the EM side.

The comments about the Police not doing their job properly made me lolz quite a bit... Silly me for thinking that a traffic Police officer stopping a motorist for a motoring related offence is their job. The law is the law at the end of the day and no matter how petty it is you can either do...

I find an H02 socket and a breaker bar works best... spanners are shite, can slip and don't give you adequate mechanical advantage. They can be purchased from most places; Snap-On, Mac, Halfords

Clean the + terminal on the battery, including terminals then re-grease and pop it all back again... if that doens't work gimme a shout and I can come out and take a look if you like? Mick

The UCH is a CPU based, network multiplexed, multi-function control unit responsible for controlling various systems on your vehicle such as electric windows, wipers, indicators, central locking, etc. The ECM is indeed the same thing as an ECU and is responsible for all things engine running...

Check the condition of all engine bay earths and the starter solenoid control wire.

I'd need your full VIN to be able to work that out as I need to find out equipment codes, tech features, etc and you shouldn't post that on a public forum. As Jonny said above, if a dealer has caused this issue then it should be down to them to rectify it

No you're right (just looked it up in the UCH fault finding) - Flashing LED is key not recognised. LED solid + then go out after 5 seconds for all okay. The fact its going solid though (I believe) suggests the code is being read and the UCH is okay with it but the ECM isn't disarming and...

Solid Red light = Key code accepted and Imob is off. As above the car needs proper diagnostics to say if the UCH/IMOB or something else is actually at fault now.

Mole grips *might* just be able to clamp on or try inserting a slighly larger allen key in. Just go easy though as the sump is alloy and will break if you go at it all ginger!

Then it wasn't done to the correct parts replacement program - that's the only way. I do the A/C'd F4R's for £450 (less dephaser) and non A/C'd F4R's for £280 so I bet he did timing belt kit and *maybe* a new aux-belt. No oil seals, re-sealing of the carriers, aux-kit, etc. If he did then please...

He might know his stuff which is why I don't like to **** people off without seeing their work but what is his knowledge/experience like on the Renault F4R as its a simple yet tricky bugger to work with if you don't know it. I had a car in today that kept popping the headlamp fuses since a...

Engine out to swap the belts you say? A bit more than just OTT but it does make the job easier I guess

It may need cleaning... if your foot has to go to the floor before you get any response it's unlikely to cure the problem.

Firstly I would advise you stop running the vehicle. Secondly, are there any warning lights on or other symptoms such as poor fuel economy, funny smells, tapping noises, etc? My initial thoughts/advice would be, if there are no warning lights, to get the vehicles timing confirmed and if that...

I'm not knocking the guys work cos it might be spot on but when somone uses the words "mechanic" and "cheap" in the same sentance as "Timing Belt" and "changed" I wince a little. Did he carry out an oil and filter change before running up the new dephaser? There's a few possibles but the job...

Hallo - Speedo sender in the back of the gearbox matey... a fairly common issue. Mick

ECM security tab is a HUGE problem on these vehicles as it rubs thru the PVC sheath and acts as a short bridge... causes all kinds of havock. Check this first and then repair any damage. If the damage is too severe then the "short" loom needs replacing; last time I checked it was around £140...

It would give you a better idea than you have at present yes but it won't tell you 100% if you have a wiring fault... that needs a keen eye and diagnostics that can perform actuations. If they work (Or if the UCH say's they're working on the actuation screen) it narrows down the fault to either...

10 minute job at most, simple job to do. You will need a 10mm socket on a rachet to remove the upper inlet plenum though. The only thing that can catch some people out is the firing order of the coil pack. Mick

There shouldn't be any "Tapping" or "Ticking" noises other than those of the charcole canisters purge valve and you shouldn't really be able to hear that over the noise of the engine. I'm assuming that the garage fitted a brand new dephaser and not a "yeah mate honest, its good" second hand...

Can also do a Cup belt change on the floor without lifting the vehicle or removing the front bumper... As above, less labour and parts.

19v @ 2k... LMGDAO, voltage regulator fekked for sure and as above, I'd leave it that way until its replaced. You should be able to rape a VR from another Valeo alternator though and switch it over should you wish to keep your costs down. It can be a fiddley job and not as easy as swapping out...

Its impossible to say really without seeing the vehicle. It could be a coilpack, water in a plug well, a faulty lead, even a duff sensor or wiring fault somewhere but in truth you're gonna be better off letting your mechanic do his job and come back with a diagnosis... its only a car at the end...

Fault codes can only be read using diagnostic equipment on these vehicles I'm afraid... do not try jamming LED's into random multiplugs like its a Vauxhall because it won't work. Take it to a local specialist matey... should cost you anymore than £25-30 to be properly checked over (And by that...

What exactly do you mean when you say its going in to "Limp Mode"? A poor idle condition is one thing and easy enough to fix normally but If the ECM was restricting you and running the car in a safe mode it wouldn't let you rev it past 3k rpm but you say it does and then the light goes off if...

Sounds like you have a potential wiring fault if it's still there with a replacement unit.

It is not necessarily the key(s) at fault here... diagnostics will confirm/deny but it could be a wiring issue to the UCH or even a fault with the ignition barrels inductive coil pickup that listens for the key code. Mick