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@Fred: I agree but in the defence of mild steel positioning tool, the setting bar shouldn't be used for any purpose other than holding the cams in place (Which is why we use the imobilliser tools). Still, I've seen people attempt to release the cam pulley 18mm nuts with them before. It's always...
Ignition On - Use either of the control buttons on the wiper stalk to cycle thru to the "Service screen" and so that the spanner symbol flashes you to death. Press and hold either of these buttons again for 10 seconds after which the new, preset service distance will be displayed. Release...
Silly question (my trade mark) - Have you actually serviced it or is it just flashing the warning because the service isn't far off and its annoying you?
Bah, still another few thousand in them yet FPMSL. This is why it pays to get your car serviced properly!!!
They should have indeed been an MOT fail yes based on visual inspection alone let alone the braking effort/force test... I bet the force balance would be all over the shop on them!
Look at it and know its filthy or test it using a digital multi-meter to see if it has an acceptable resistance value. If its "high" (I don't mean if its smoked too much weed) it'll need "improving" usually by cleaning both the chassis mount and wiring connector and refitting.
Depends on how you define "Proper" D as Renault don't actually make them. The most common items found in workshops these days are usually built by AST but Laser, Franklin and Sealey offer cheaper units that people seem to **** off (though I can't see what's obviously wrong with them myself).
A...
£300 off for some cap mayo after its been stood for a while - Stand and deliver you pikey! As long as it doesn't return in massive force and the coolant isn't vanishing all should be well.
Poor/corroded earths deffo the most likely causes of the electrical issues though. Dash rear fog light...
I've done a few for some local CS members but as I've not paid my subs yet i'm not allowed to advertise my company (yet) however, I don't get why people moan about "lack of access" on the F4R or even the K4/K7M's cos there's plenty IMO (If they want a fun job they should try a timing belt...
+1 Laine - IF its a compression fault then it could be valve or ring related... as for fixes and prices worry about that if the results show a wild cylinder reading.
You're sure its not got snagged/caught anywhere as its rare that these things happen? Has it left enough 'free' cable to get a solder connection in?
Worrying its 'snapped' though but it has been cold recently... could have helped it along as its only thin guage wire IIRC.
TBH you've been unlucky if you lost all the gearbox oil - probebrly too much 'playing' with the hub when it was free but never mind. What exactly wouldn't fit with the camber bolts; do you mean they won't go thru the holes on the damper legs or they won't go thru the holes in the hubs? The...
They're not exactly hard to get off - Take one off, lean on it and I bet it goes to the floor without so much as a fight let alone rebound. Replace as a pair though ;)
Maybe I am you Dad :lol:
12v @ 10A isn't gonna arc that far - Its more likely that the spades will move and touch one another causing a short but if they're soldered on they're not gonna go anywhere unless you can't solder for shiz.
We're talking about a Clio II Phase 2 RS'Cup yeah?
I've got a clockset from one here on my desk right now in for repair and the light below the seatbelt warning lamp (top left above the tacho) is the dipped head-lamp. [confuzzled] Pics required please
Mick
Just be carefull with spade connectors... They're okay in some situations but to an auto-electrician like me they're the devils along with "Choc-blocs" and "Scotch Locks"!
They're fine in *most* applications but remember this is your fuel pump so fairly critical as far as systems go. Firstly...
Sorry, one of the wires was "out" of the EGR Multi-plug or the Multi-plug was just out of the EGR Valve? Either way that's not good - have you been able to confirm/deny the EGR's operation?
The EGR Valve and Glow Plug Heater circuits are linked on these vehciles which is most likely why you're...
Was it just a "J" or was it "JCO_" or "JCC_"?
A "J" being displayed on the clocksets LCD screen when put in to self diagnostic mode merely denotes there has, at some point, been an "issue" with the fuel tank sender circuit. This fault could simply be low voltage for a while or even the...
You can buy them from an automotive electrical specialist - For me they're called "Midland Magneto" but eBay *may* be another source. Dave Walker at Emerald also sells the pins you'll need for the fuel pump multiplug but you will also need a special tool to 'de-pin' the plug (Unless you fancy...
Sounds like it could be the EGR Position sensor struggling or even a siezing/sticking valve itself... maybe time to remove it and give it a good blast out with something like a tin of brake cleaner. Don't breathe in the black s**t though cos it won't put hair on yer chest!!!
Mick
IF that's the case then the wrong clutch has been fitted - That is all.
It is possible to get a little "Adjustment" from the clutch rachet but not enough to make a problem like this dissapear - personally, I think a wrong clutch has been fitted. Out of curiosity, have you measured the clutch...
Yep, most likely a poor connection between the plug pins and the terminals - Can't you "modify" them with a small screwdriver to make them meet again? New pins are available but they're not cheap for what they are (and you can only buy them in packs of 32)