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Horses for courses I guess Danny - I personally find when doing F4R timing belts that having the lamp unit out gives nice access for the Snap-On serp rachet to get in on the tensioner.
What complete fcuk-tards then - It really should go back to them with a brick attached to the keyfob especially if it wasn't on before hand. I can't understand how they've managed to screw the pooch so badly with a steering wheel off/on job!
A '182 will most likely use an actuated/stepper controlled TB so no IACV.
I'd guess at either H02-1, CTS, CPS or faulty ignition system (Check for moisture in plug wells)
The MkI's from Ph2 on did have an intertia switch... passenger turret area near the resevoir with either a black or red cover on them but this shouldn't give a "No Crank Start" as it merely breaks the fuel pump/ignition control signal(s). When you turn the ignition key to 'energise' can you hear...
Its the coolant overflow return which on the D7F DIET engine is only open when the stat is fully open as they don't have a partial drain/leak hole in the stat - he's proberbly not even run it up to that point yet. Its not exactly high pressure either so if he's say bent it over and cable tied it...
"Traction" control is ABS controlled so the SRS system *shouldn't* trigger this... "ESP" on the other hand takes in to account steering angle and so does use the "SAS" which is part of the Squibs sub-assembly on ESP equiped vehicles.
I need to ask; WHY is the wiring to the sterring wheel...
These cars are common for wiring looms rubbing thru in key places, crank position sensor faults, etc but it could equally be an imobilliser issue or a basic engine problem to. You need to get someone that knows what they're doing to go back to basics with this first mate as guessing isn't cheap...
Throttle body on the 1.2 16v is integral to the airbox IIRC... rate pain in the ar_ _
Don't fit a K&N... It won't add 10bhp and if its the noise you want why not put a tastefull backbox on it and save your fuel consumption/pocket?
Nope, its not common... sounds like it could be a couple of things such as a leak in the inlet track and/or a faulty engine sensor such as H02-1 or CTS.
Start with the cheap and easy service items first by looking for a seriously fouled up throttle body as this can give faulty idle conditions...
Original question by Big Duff... most likely to be the oil pressure switch at fault IF the oil level if bang on... fit a new one. No damage will have been done if its just a faulty switch as they're pretty common for it so fret not. It may however be prudent to have the engines actual oil...
Could indeed be a worn starter if the cranking speed is slow and sounding like its being held back... especially check the heat sheilding if its only doing it when warm. If it's cranking fine but not firing it'll be the Crank Position sensor at fault. You can remove it, clean it and refit it but...
Deffo NOT a vent, its the overflow return to the header... see pic below:
It's a little blury I know but you can clearly see the pipe in the top, centre of the shot coming up from the thermostat house and going to the return on the coolant resevoir.
A DIET engine... blast from the past!!! Sorry but i'm not following as I can't really see the pipe that you bent over and blocked in the picture above... do you mean that coolant pipe coming vertically off the top of the stat housing that then bends towards the bulkhead of the car? If so, that's...
Does it all come on okay when you put the key in and turn it but without trying to start the car? (You should see the needles flicker slightly when you 'key-on') Try putting the clockset in to diagnostic mode to see if its a generic electrical fault or a clockset fault itself.
It depends on the code(s) found but its a "how long is a piece of string" question. It could simply need a new pedal potentiometer or a throttle body but as its a 1.2 16v it could also be a wiring issue... theyre known for them.
Any updates on this Lindley?
Be very carefull slandering businesses like that without actual proof - I'm nothing to do with NWP but its saying things like that which can kill a small business and also puts off other customers which isn't fair especially as it turns out their work on the timing...
Faulty TDC sensor is the most common cause of this - it'll need the updated "blue" sensor and new fly lead fitting to the loom. Parts will set him back around £65 from a Renault Parts Dept or about £48 from a decent autofactors. Wires will need soldering to the loom though so tell him its not a...
Interference or 'noise' is a possible but the thing that makes me believe that's not the issue it the fact that once the car warms up (Or the external temps get higher) then its no longer an issue so deffo temp. related.
The only thing I can suggest at the minute is I'll either come and have...
Squeaking belts are not normal... do you think they came out of the showrooms like this? My Scenic workbus used to do it aswell then I replaced the belt run and guess what? It doesn't do it anymore at all; cold, warm, wet or dry.
James, give the belt a tug from the drivers wheel arch and see...
I was thinking about this only yesterday Seb as I'd not heard anymore from you.
There's got to be a simple explanation for this issue, there just has to be - Wiring or a component. Did you ever find out what the "Experimental" fix was that they applied to the ECM?
Mick