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You should be safe with that... pretty sure you can buy these as a fully built or even a DIY build kit from Maplins

Okay so some homework shows that Merlins "AOR034" is actually a Walbro "ITP147" which is a direct replacement Renault pump rather than an "Uprated" unit (in an increased flow rate sense at least). Check the power then check the breathers are not blocked and, if you have them, check the...

Nope, there's no Bosch to EODB database that I know of and a quick Google turned up nothing either. There's also no "FREE" way to get ODBII codes from a Renault either so you're gonna have to take it somewhere to be read properly by someone with decent, non-Bosch kit (I really hate the Bosch...

So its an "uprated" in-tank pump feeding an external, mechanically set pressure regulator. A couple of things: Have you got a model number for the fuel pump so I can track it down on'tinternet? Have you put a volt meter across the terminals yet to see that its got a nice, steady power supply?

Bloody Bosch Esi-Tronics are nothing but trouble. Garages are dupped into buying them for lots of cash as they trust the brandname but in truth they'd be far better off buying a Snap-On Ethos II and a Verso for all there diagnostic needs. The only thing I can find that is close to the "3503"...

Link to video: Clickity Click and should stream from Media Player

I got the Vid by right clicking it and opening the URL in a new window. Pardon my ignorance but I don't know your car, its spec, etc so can you tell me how the fuel system is setup? Sounds like the pump is starting up every 10 secs and then stopping... that being the case it could be a wiring...

Aux belt service kit required... you can get away with just changing the belt IF, upon inspection, the bearings in the tensioner and idler feel fine and aren't noisey but that's not doing the job properly. A belt from an autofactors will set you back around £15-18 and enjoy fitting it... you...

Bar the blue plastics (why Renault, WTF were you thinking)

Sorry but what diagnostic kit was used to get that code as "3503" is non-generic nor is it a Renault specific code (Sounds like a silly Bosch code to me for which I have no lookup data) What symptoms, if any, have you had other than the what you call "Limp Mode" which I assume is poor...

@ Rob - I like the cut of your jib with the flamethrowers idea! @ Sparky - Very easy to do this but you need a 5 pin 12v relay rather than a 4 pin unit that is rated accordingly for the circuit you want it to switch (Though most are either 20A or 40A and are capable of switching most general...

Obviously its not a complete doom and gloom situation but I wouldn't be quite so trusting as the noise is there because something isn't 100% right. If that A/C Compressor goes due to some unforseen 'issue' chances are the aux belt goes with it... which can (and does) slip the crank sprocket...

I don't think its a bad looking example myself and worth a circa £1k bid IMO but has it got any history, especially of timing belt changes? Use the box status and lack of belt history against him and don't be afraid of hurting his feelings as they're not cheap and essential on these cars.

You remove the lifting eye from the front right of the head then screw the horse-shoe to the head ;) Also, the pin isn't a "Lock" pin as such and is merely a "Stop" so you cannot advance the crank past TDC... they're only £14 though as they're easy to bend when you let kids play (and insist on...

Should have 2xH02 sensors on a '02 model. Most problems are caused by the "pre-CAT" sensor but I wouldn't change anything on a whim... diagnostics + live data session will tell you for sure what, if anything, is at fault.

Agree, deffo not £1750 worth and the guy has openly said its had a gearbox fitted that's wrong so its unlikely to be a simple case of a £21 sender. Even a Megane 16v, Clio 16v or Williams box would fit and would take a sender unit so most likely to be a Cup box on there. Is it a Phase 2 model...

To be honest the diagnosis Kwik-Fit made sounds about right... corrosion on the inner face of the disc results in less surface area for the brake pad to bind on (also, if the current pads have worn badly to the old disc face they won't be working at optimum either) which in turn reduces your...

Every K4J and K4M I've worked on have 2x10mm bolts securing the throttle body down to the top rear of the engine. The airbox is also held down by x2 Torx bolts but i'm certain these aren't supposed to hold the TB in place. Mick

It's unlikely to be pressure related as the system self monitors this and if it's so low as to cause the pump to function incorrectly it simply won't allow its operation. I'd say you're on the money with the pump as the most likely cause of the whine if its only there when the magnetic clutch is...

Most likely cause is the cable is done for and needs changing. DON'T buy a "Universal" cable kit because they always end in tears especially when a genuine Renault one is about £17 and so easy to fit yourself (Just remember the correct routing)

No you need them all to spin if you're doing the job properly as you are supposed to 'spin' the newly fitted setup 5 or 6 times in the direction of normal rotation to check the tensioner mark is bang on prior to final assembly and not moving all over the place.

Because the way the timing belt run is tensioned requires for all sprockets to rotate freely. I liked the F7R method but when you've done a few F4R's and K4M's you soon get used to the way things are now.

Does it have a button on the stalk first of all? Not all Clio II's do! If it does then its proberbly the button is stuck in but if it doens't... Uh-oh!

Sounds like a backfeeding earth... meaning they're sharing a common ground which isn't enough to run both units. Check the earths matey and if needs be, for testing purposes, run a dedicated earth direct to the bodywork. Mick

Clutch 'judder' is likely to be caused by either contamination of the clutch plate, heat damaged flywheel and/or a damaged/worn pressure plate. How many iles has the vehicle covered and when was the last clutch kit change? Sounds like its getting ready for a clutch to me mate ;)

What exactly were these "Other couple of problems" that your corrected? Does it appear to 'spin' faster when trying to start it? Personally, I think timing is the most likely issue and either the bottom sprocket or cam/dephaser pulleys are just spinning due to incorrect torque being applied to...

"Immobiliser Relay"... no such thing I'm afraid matey it's all CAN Bus and coded transmission these days. I can't comment on the problem of it just not turning over at all as it sounds like you've got a couple of problems to me (Maybe a broken/corroded earth) but only a thorough diagnostics...

Alarm goes off... Do you have an aftermarket setup fitted? In that case I would have a health check diagnostics session because i've never known a faulty crank position sensor cause a sport to beep. It could be a totally seperate issue but a genuine Renault "updated" sensor and new loom section...

That's very true Brun - I went to price up some service bits for a mates 172 today using a local auto-factors and the following parts came to £87 Oil - 5l Oil Filter - Coopers Air Filter - Coopers Pollen Filter - Coopers Plugs x4 - NGK Granted, you can drop £45 from that for the plugs alone...

What's wrong with that Fred? Blast it with the airline and replace... job done ;)