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If the red light is steady when you put the key in the ignition, even when the car refuses to start say's it is not an imobilliser issue. A diagnostic session will say for sure but i'd guess the crank position sensor/circuit is at fault myself.

Assuming its not losing coolant rings is a good guess but you say the rear screen is getting wet so it sounds like the bores are pushing water out to me - check coolant level and report back.

Nope - TDC/Crank Position sensor wouldn't allow the car to run at all if it was faulty as its one and only task is to tell the ECM when the crank position reaches TDC.

Spring coil busted, ARB bush,Exhaust mount, Under tray... could be a few things TBH but really, the only way you're gonna know for sure is to get it looked at pdq. Mick

Be sure the IACV is seated and operating correctly... and the breather pipes that connect it all together. If that doesn't help make sure there's no damage to the inlet section that the IACV sits in then finally, be sure to check the TB is nice and clean and not gunked up with nasty oil...

Okay, first of all the imobilliser will not "reset" itself... It's an active system that unless the battery is disconnected is always working in one way or another. When you put the key in the ignition and turn the key to start the car what is the "state" of the red LED center of the clockset...

WTF, why did they advisory that - The technician was a qualified MOT tester yeah? The image above shows new, young apprentices for K-F learning to use the cutting edge four wheel laser alignment equipment

On a 1.2 TCE it is - My work bus (1.6 16v Scenic) does 42-45mpg all day long and thats lugging all my tools and kit about. Back to Renault for a Clip/Live data session to see what HO2S1 is up to along with the CTS

You can't get better than a Kwik-fit fitter... apparently! LMGDAO In a way you're very lucky its an older, bomb proof engine as the newer 16v engines wouldn't like this happening one bit!! I'm with Danny on this with the bolts coming loose allowing the pulley drive to fall away. Strange though...

And the car is????? The ABS fault could be linked as it carries out many functions other than ensuring you don't lock up on some models. Sounds like you've either got a dead master cylinder or brake servo. The fact that you've got some braking says the master cylinder is fine and its servo...

Try putting a multimeter across the two terminals on each unit and make a note of each resistance value - If they're in a good electrical condition/state they'll be around 13.5-15.5 Ohms each. If they're all showing higher then i'm afraid they're fubar'd but as above, possibly refurbish-able (If...

"ECM Wiring" - Have you checked all the main earth points and confirmed that they're all clean and giving a low, reliable resistance value? You also said you've checked the ECM wires... was this purely a visual inspection or did you do a point to point trace on each specific line from ECM to...

If it was only doing it when connected I'd suspect either an ECM or wiring fault but as it's all the time it sounds like you've got a set of faulty/seized injectors as they *should* be closed until the ECM triggers them. Send them away for testing/cleaning as they *may* be salvageable

100% Thermostat stuck open... replace it with a new one, add some coolant and you'll be toastie and warm again in no time!

I can see that you Welsh tart... I mean't who makes it & who made the adaptor plate cos me likey?

lol @ 160bhp - That's a bang tidy looking build and Aero-quip pornography to match! Need to ask; what's the water pump setup? Mick

My Laguna II did this and it was a fault with the hydraulic concentric clutch slave which is covered by warranty! Either way it should be back at Renault asap for a warranty claim IMO

Nope - the fact the heater temp rapidly changes also leads me to think you've got water pump problems.

Live data/resistance check on the pedal tracks required to ensure conformity. Also, the 1.2 16v is plagued with electrical gremlins of which a poor motorised throttle body is an issue... they are problematic so should be ruled out. Other issues are mainly wiring related so inspect the main loom...

Either the IAT sensor itself at fault or a wiring issue to it

Jump ;) - Sorry, what was the question again?

Drums on the rear? Proberbly friction material fallen off the shoe and jammed the rear wheel up... nice in these temps! Firstly, have you tried rotating it anti-clockwise to attempt to free it off? Secondly, you have you removed the 28mm nut hidden behind the centre cap right? (Silly question...

The "live data" screens should show what's not 100% right... CTS is the most common sensor that effects fuelling and running when faulty... also effects the Ho2 sensors as the car will fuel incorrectly (Normally on the rich side). The newer MAP Sensors are normally bomb proof and rarely go wrong...

Take it somewhere with proper diagnostics to get looked at... code readers don't always hold the answer ;) How old is the car? Sounds like a cold start issue so my guess is an EGR fault or something to do with the cold start relay circuit. Mick

Faults do happen as no manufacturer can say with 100% certainty that there products have a 100% reliability rate but did they "lock" the new pulley before fitting it? I've not done one on an F4R in a while now... everything is K4J/M at the minute and I believe they come pre-locked from Renault...

The last rear disc service kit I purchased from Renault came to £117 and some pocket change which I thought was more that reasonable... try them and don't be afraid to ask for a discount!

We assure you, it is quite normal on a Renault - Count yourself lucky, I've had friends with ABS'd Renault 19's that have caught fire when they hit the brakes... it's a 19 "Bendix" thing :rolleyes:

This +1

Indeed and thats you being very fair and sensible I think - People are fairly fast to act aggressively without thinking as sometimes things just go wrong thru no fault of anyone in particular. Obviously if it is timing related it needs to be looked at and resolved ASAP but I personally think...

It could be a leaky exhaust, poor cat performance, faulty Ho2, CTS, incorrect timing or, in the case of a 2.0 206, hydraulic lifters (ghey JW10 engine). Who did the belt change? Id be taking it back but be nice... it isnt necesarily there fault.