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A wiring issue is the most likely cause in the door jam but If he managed to get it back up with a few wires me thinks, speaking as an autospark, the motor/regulator is most likely fine and he proberbly took the doorcard off and reversed the motor polarity. £120 though - i need to up my game!

Read The Manual!

Thats fuel used or flowed in gallons iirc

AFAIK that link only relates to early remote CL keys with IR transmission and NOT RF Keys Also, you can leave the battery out of an RF key for days and it will re-sync itself as its physically paired to the UCH of the vehicle... this can only be done once which is why 2nd hand keys cannot be...

Depends what you want it to do - SnapOn Modus, Launch, Etc all come in around £1100-1900 + vat I guess it depends on what level you want to get in to "things" but kit like this tends to be beyond the financial reach of most DIYers

For under £100 you're unlikely to get anything like a fully functional scan tool... if you could garages everywhere would buy them. I do believe that every true enthusiast should have something like this in their tool box though. Unfortunatly, the u380 will only do generic "P" codes for the...

It will not be the Imob... trust me, i'm an autospark and it will most likely be a fault to the starter solenoid circuit as mentioned above... single white wire with a spade connector on it that actuates when you turn the key is the common culprit. Failing that, it'll be either the multiplug to...

Danny is bang on the money with the spun the bottom sprocket - These engines are "Keyless" and rely upon correct torque settings and the use of proper tools to set and lock the timing in place. Proberbly had the belt done incorrectly at some point in its life and the standing launch pursuaded it...

The actual 'S4' immobiliser transponder "chip" isn't fixed to the PCB... see images below (I know your key will look different but it'll be a single button RF MkII keyfob)... The S4 chip has most likely fallen out when you've broken the case open and if it is the case I hope you haven't...

As above, the post-Ho2 sounds fine to me. 100% Sure its the CAT rattling about... it's a Renault afterall? What made you suspect the Post Ho2?

They couldn't tell you if it was the alternator bearing or not? Sweet baby Jesus and the orphans, do people not like doing work at the mo? 1 - Remove aux belt, start car briefly... has noise gone? YES/NO YES - Go to step 2, NO - Further investigation required to trace source of complaint...

Honestly, there's so many things I could take a stab guessing at like it could just be the cold has taken the life out of the battery, the cold start relay not working, glow plugs, diesel pressure sensor playing silly buggers or it cold even be the cold has caused the rubber leak off pipes to...

I will get back to you with that info then - Is it a MkII Ph2 Clio and what engine is it at present please?

Diagnostics for the win ;) If it was fine before, bar the loose plug, then it must be something you've done and without seeing the car I cannot offer any genuine help or support... if its not obvious to you it needs a garage to look it over and tell you what is wrong i'm afraid.

Ive pin mapped quite a few Renaults over the years so yup, im sure i can help you with that. I assume you want to know which clockset plug and pin yes?

That and the audible "bang" you heard also. Theyre so easy to check to as it could be something else.

Again, without actual schematics i cannot say for sure but when the vehicle is off the oil pressure switch and will be in the "closed" position meaning it is grounded. If youre then also tracing the water temp common line (also a ground ) then the two paths will trace as theyre going to earth.

+1 A few other things to check for are check to see if the MAP Sensor and Air Temp Sensor has blown out of the inlet. The injectors on the F4R are really flimsy and when damaged can fuel incorrectly... the resulting overfuel causes detonation on the wasted spark and so blows these sensors out!

I'd have to take a look at the specific schematics for your car to say for sure but i'm guessing that the warning light might double up as a generic "Warning" lamp (??). You're possibly on the wrong pin or you've got a damaged loom section somewhere. Mick

Sounds like a fault with the inlet track or breather system to me. IACV, Brake vacum line, possibly even the purge canister feed on the top of the TB is a common place for leaks to occur. If all check out have the manifold gaskets and IACV looked at. Mick

Youve no doubt traced the common wire to the sensor array. There will be, depending on vehicle and engine type, 3 wires from the CTS; signal - gauge, signal - ECM, ground. The signal gauge runs to the passenger side engine bay fusebox where the loom meets the cabin loom and so feeds the dash...

Most likely just some moisture on the belt run Scott... new belt tensioned will cure it. If not it could be the alternator bearing race but i wouldnt worry about that yet.

Ace - I for one hope for the best cos it'll save me loads in the workshop.

Key in ignition - Hold down wiper stalk button - Turn key till ignition lights come on - clockset will beep and go in to diagnostics mode - release stalk button - press trip reset button - turn off ignition - turn back on and take the car for a run... should now be working again.

If I were you, I'd seek a second opinion

Yes, they're easy enough to clean but they do have to come off the car and use something like a spray brake cleaner to de-gunk it. Pretty simple job and there's two long bolts holding the resonator box to the TB and a further 2 10mm bolts holding the TB to the block. Remove these and the TB will...

Frost making brakes stick... good job we live in a so called "Moderate" climate then isn't it :rolleyes:

Hard to say from a a sound clip I'm afraid but if you need the car I recommend you get it looked at by a garage or someone that actually knows what they're on with as I think it's gonna be beyond your ability (No offence). You need three things to make an engine run... Fuel, Oxygen and an...

RST is correct, it really needs a diagnostic session to see what the sensor array is telling the ECM. I will say its most likely gonna be the coolant temp sensor or a faulty injector.

Are you sure it wasn't misfiring before? Was the plug damaged in any way and did you check the air gap before refitting? Did you get heavy handed with the plug leads when removing them? Are you sure you've got the leads on in the correct order? HT Leads are, believe it or not, a consumable...