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The filters work well, but I believe can run out quite quickly once you start washing your car often and thus can get expensive. As the gent above me has suggested, water butts are the best method.
A good idea and worth trying everything on it, from swirl and RDS removal to stone chip and scratch repair, wet sanding, painting etc. Well worth it.
And don't stop at correction - think about IPA wipe downs, LSP trials (wax1 vs wax2), which glaze works best etc.
Quick point, as Dave has pointed out, worth asking/know what Cup side strips are made of/covered in. They are unlacquered/matt lacquered. So you might find they're actually damaged, not just "polished up".
Most people get them resprayed and lacquered properly.
1. Use when dry - if used with water it dilutes the effects, so won't be as effective
2. spray on, leave it to work but don't let it dry, wash off - if being used on wheels, you can agitate it but it shouldn't need it
3.De-tar, de-iron, wash, clay
Flol, fark arf. I've just ordered more C4 in addition to your parcel as realised I want to do most of the engine bay as well. Thought I might as well order some more applicators as well as guessing you've none left after the Rav4? ;)
Your car. ;)
What kit have you got? I may bring my stuff back down to London from the NW w/c 17th Sept, so if you can hold out until then, it'll make it 10x easier.
Not at all Raz. Search for my Audi suspension/arches thread. I used FK1000p on them in September and they're still going strong. Cleanest arches in Clapham, y0.
AutoFinesse Gorms.
Chapppers, how they can put flakes of glitter in the wax, but not make it scratch? I know what written word is like on forums, so this is a genuinely interested question (I did Chemistry to quite a high level, so intrigued).
Happy to lend a hand/guide you through it/do it and teach you.
Where specifically? My other half lives in Purley so round at her parents for most Sunday lunches!