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You are wrong, if anything it will increae it, main gains i';ve noticed, not so much on acceleration, but the revs towards the top end are alot 'freeer', ansd so the car feels happier top end
Shoudl be able to get the hub off wihtitn the next week, sat on it at the moment, so can tell you if the bearing is in decvent nick, AFAIK all the mk1 hubs are the same.
I got charged £6 tro press 2 bearings inot rear discs by my local garage, so not expensive
No idea till i get it off the car, will be comming off a M reg Rsi on 78k iirc.
Again no idea on berarings and when they were last replaced, can try ot have a look through the service history(if it has any) when i take the hub off.
Delivery can be as quick, or take as long as you like...
Explain........please Fred, the feeling i'm getting from Ben is that any change is good untill you go to far, and then you'll know about it
BenR
Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 7:36 pm Post subject...
Mild steel de-cat for mk1 clios, £35 delivered, sold god knows how many on here and various other places.
Just need to get a new supplier of the flanges sorted and i'm away
Screw not getting any benfit, anyone who says that is a lier.
No point in doing the rears imo, but i just stuck 10/15mm spacers on the front of my RSi, to make it more towards williams track, and boiy what a difference, turn in is imediatly better, can carry more speed round corners, stearing...
Get plenty of pics mate, of both sizes, and find out if it comes wiht any sort of guarentee ref fitting.
Where are they based?
Rather take my car there and fit it there and make them mod it if it doesn't fit
Mark Ritchspeeds 4 pot kit is deisgned toe run on std 172 discs £280mm) or std williams discs (259mm).
You can't use std pads due to the different shape of the caliper
Are the revs actually raising high rather then the car moving, you haven't answered this question, if not then the clutch is fine.
Dont' f**k about getting a new clutch if there is nothign wrong with it
The ideal hight is the back end about 20mm or so higher than the back, as the car sits naturaklly, wiht eh back end too hgih you will tend to go more towards overstear, and with the arse end so low it will just undderstear for England.
That is not 90mm!!!
Mine is 50-60mm and yours is only sat...
Mine is 55mm on WELL settled springs, so prolly about 60mm, scrubs a bit on full lock wiht my track tyres on (195/50), and sometimes catches ont eh top of the arch on full lock if you have one wheel at the front raised (suspension there compressed).....oh and it absoloutly takes chuncks out of...
Try cleaning the ISCV for the idling problem, also can't hurt to give inside the TB a good clean.
Fpr the fuel smell on mine the lines that go up to the fuel rail were cracked etc and so i changed them, this solved the fuel smell
Get yourself over to www.willaimsclio.co.uk/forum and have a word wiht Mark Ritchspeed, he does 280mm (and bigger) Willward 4 pot conversions for the mk1 clios for some stupidly low price
If you haven't checked the CV joints on the driveshafts do so now, if you push the shaft up by the joint there shoudln't be any movement, if there is the joint has gone
Self tappers and chassis screws are sh*t! As Fred says get some nuts, bolts and washers and bolt it in, no point in fitting a strut brace designed to stiffen the front of your car of you attach it so that it can move about :rolleyes:
On the RSi you ahve to remove the top engine mount to get the cambelt cover off, when you do this you need to support the engine under the sump wiht a jack and a block of wood.
Invest in a haynes manual it will telly uo this and sooo much more
Reno discs come wiht the bearings pressed in.
You can keep the orignal bearings but its one of those thigns you may as well do while they are off the car