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I used to say don't bother. Now I say do, I must've changed 20 knackered ones this year.

Terraclean won't solve any issues. Snake oil. These cars run rich with an RSTuner.

When you get it rolling roaded, make sure you video your reaction. These will NEVER make 210 on RS inlets letalone 224. The 182 manifold isn't really any better, particularly for Top end gains. A flywheel has literally zero to do with power output.

Or boosted. As it's on the std inlet I'm going boosted

I'm based in Glastonbury

Goes direct to the ecu. Try a new sensor first.

Where are you based?

2 hours labour, price is right for a GENUINE alternator, £68 is retail for an aux kit

Well, if you get it warm, then unplug it all, and it starts, you're doing well ;)

Does it have ESP?

Unplug all the sensors except for: Crank sensor Map sensor Throttle position See if it starts If so then slowly plug sensors in until it won't.

If you're really stuck, RAC/AA will recover to a garage of your choice if you have high cover. (If it's suitable to you and want to get it recovered to me I can do it weds. And collect you from a train station)

I'd recommend a set of ARP's

The problem is in the connection between the look and the rear light unit

You're supposed to change the full kit, which is why you're having issues. The jubilee clip method works fine, used it a few times out in the field when I've not had the right tool with me.

For what you use it for mate yes.

At the moment yes (I had to get another company to make the hoses after being let down by samco) and I'm waiting on the ARP's.

FLOL. I had one in like that last week. And the timing was out, yet the garage had checked it 5 times and assured it was correct. It wasn't.

Like so. Timing has gone from this: To this:

If you're turning the crank to get it to stop that's wrong already. I don't know how so many people get it wrong, but they do. If the tool doesn't slide, side to side in the cams, it's wrong. If the crank has been locked in the balance hole instead of the locking slot, it's wrong. If the...

Just because he got 1 right doesn't mean yours is. Trust me I've spent the last 3 weeks correcting cambelts done by other garages. One of the worst was a trader on here at one point!

So not the genuine tools then. I'm putting money on timing.

Sounds like a classic UCH Failure.

Were his tools silver that slotted into the cams? Are you getting about 28mpg?

quite a cool video I made earlier I think.. Posted it on CSOC straight from my phone but uploaded it to YouTube now for those on here. Spec is standard engine bar ARP's and on the stock ECU.

Better off taking it to someone who knows the job. The money you spend on tools will be more than what it costs to do the work.

No. shouldn't do anyway!!

It is an option in clip yes.

No they cant.

That doesn't work on ph2's. Solid red light means fault along the CAN line. The fact you can fit your old stuff back and it works fine suggests a dead UCH.