Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
@flebay . Why would car run fine for 4 weeks then suddenly the batteries not holding a charge anymore?
@bashracing . You mean the red cable on the front of the alternator? Thats looks in good condition , no corrosion whatsoever.
You reckon I could have bad luck twice in 4 months ? The guy who...
.
.
I don't know . There's local company that reconditions them called Ellisons and they come highly rated , on my receipt it says EL1 so I'm assuming they supplied the part . Is it possible they fitted the wrong rating 75 instead of 110 amps ? Would that cause a problem ? Or maybe even the...
I had an alternator fitted at a local garage back in November. They came recommended by somebody on here and have a good reputation. Fast forward to February 8th , that alternator started pouring smoke from it and all the lights came on the dash.
The following day I got the car towed to the...
They'll be refurbed / exchange at that price . Mine was £205 supplied and fitted at a local garage . I'm not that clued up on alternators , I understand if you have aircon you'll need the 110 amp version. I haven't got a clue why there's such a big difference in price . Maybe someone else will...
Can't go wrong with Uniroyal Rainsport 3's imo . Excellent all round tyre for the road , especially in the wet . Go fo the XL with the slightly stiffer sidewalls .
I don't know mate to be honest . I was just thinking how similar yours sounds that happened to mine . Like oVerboost said , its could also be your earth or battery .
Any smoke from the alternator? My packed up a few weeks ago, burning smell and smoke then everything went off, no electrics at all. I was on my way to work and had to ditch it there until the next day. I couldn't unlock it with the plip, but I could with the key in the passenger door lock...
I've always left my shims in place , made sure everything was clean when fitting new pads and fitted new shims . I've always had to file away the corners of the backing plate to make the pads move freely . I do put grease on the backing plate as its supposed to help with brake squeal , but I'd...
The last time I heard somebody mention a price for an original splitter they were in the region of £165.00 :astonished: either way , £165 or £118 is hell of a bit of money for something that wil inevitably again :wink:
Or from here . Don't forget the spacer washer for the rear discs .
http://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/product/renault-clio-172-182-brake-disc-pads-set-rear/
Its a rounded , hard , black plastic . And they smash because they are quite brittle . The Skoda Fabia ones are more flat when you look at them front on . Go for a Skoda one , they look better imo , they're more flexible and won't smash and they're only about £13 from a Skoda dealership ...
I used the original springs from the Renault kit , they were the only part that hadn't rusted . Maybe you've bought a kit in the past from northwest performance and the springs are slightly different ?
These look the same as the Renault springs , but obviously i can't say 100% for sure or vouch...
The centre cap was pretty much mint so It didn't need painting . I made a template out of cardboard so I didn't spray inside the wheel where the bolts go ( as you can see in one of the pics).
My old ph2 172 and my 182 have the filters internally . Personally I wouldn't bother changing any parts on a car unless they have failed and need it changing.
Thanks . Don't forget your car will be off the road for a few days while you do it . Your best bet if you're going down the DIY refurb route is to get a spare with a tyre and do one at a time :wink:
I refurbed a wheel I bought for a spare a few years ago . It was badly scratched and needed a bit of metal filler .
I used Isopon metalik filler
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006I4ABCY/?tag=cliospnet01-21
And I had my paint mixed at a local motor factors . Since then , the go to place for...
NGK PFR6E-10 . They come pregapped so just whack em in :wink:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-Clio-2-0-16v-Sport-172-182-Genuine-Set-Of-Spark-Plugs-x4-8200239321-/271784689909?hash=item3f47a140f5:g:iRAAAOxyFbpR5~fT
I've never used these myself , but over the years I've heard good reports about Autopaint in St.Helens.
https://www.auto-paint.co.uk/autopaint/aerosols/mixed-aerosols.html
Like @JB21 said . Bleed in any order , it doesn't matter . Just make sure you keep the reservoir topped up . I use one of these tubes , cut in half with some tubing in the middle joing each part together . One end onto the cracked open bleed nipple , the end with the rivet into an old jam jar/...
Never had the S.Drives so can't comment on them . I'm on my 3rd set of RS3's moving on from RS2's . I think they're a brilliant tyre in the wet , and equally as good in the dry when pushing on . As stated , the wear rate isn't fantastic but that doesn't bother me .
I crack the bleed nipple and push the piston back into the caliper with my thumbs ( I have BIG thumbs lol) so I know mines not rusted inside if I can use my thumbs. Maybe your piston is rusty inside and sticking ? Also worth taking the slider pins out , clean them up and grease them.
Are your pads moving freely ? I've always found , with any pads I've used over the years I need to file a tiny bit off each corner of the backing plate of the pad so it doesn't bind in the carrier . I've never had a problem after I file it down and I always use the shims.