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New iirc.

Can still get williams wheels new if needs be https://en.oreca-store.com/clio-williams-15-wheel-rsp6001025892.html

Just diesel knocky/bit of reek out the back. From reading the literature im sure you only get 3 seconds of heat on these old delphi commonrail unless its something daft like -10 which will give more. Its had one plug 100k ago, only ever failed to start when fuel pressure sensor failed. Unlike...

Absolultely welcome to have a look at the software mate. If you werent so far away id say pop over. Im hoping i can actually get something fully mapped on ecumaster this year:LOL:

I believe a single bad connection to a glow plug will fire this code. Check the individual wires to each.

Should go over ok as it expands a fair bit. Pretty difficult to fit in situ but not too bad on the bench.

Both of mine have glowplug faults stored. Defo none working on my blue one, fires off no issue -5 temps. Log fuel pressure when cranking on diagnostics.

Stinks of airleak at filter/primer or injector on its way. Do a leakoff test

it is indeed like a sock - Basalt Thermal Exhaust Pipe Sleeve. Ive ordered it from here a couple of times https://hilltop-products.co.uk/hilbas-basalt-thermal-exhaust-pipe-sleeve-76mm.html?utm_source=google_shopping&srsltid=AfmBOor4nUkLkFSbZ99opPuODvDODYvgYs5JsAL0s6sSCTxnmD_HBsMtmJA Its good...

Know exactly where your coming from on different ecu's having quirks of the software. Ecumaster not too bad but there is differences/quirks to other stuff ive worked on. I can get round my version v2 now and have stuck with it for that reason. V3 is similar but different. Plenty of support though.

PO code means nowt, need df codes really . At a wild guess lambda is reporting lean mixture and fuel pump is on its last legs, but very hard to say without proper diag

Updates. Turbo, wastegate and downpipe test fitted. Turbo oil return, wastegate hoses and a couple of bits to sort but nothing too hard to do. Should be a goer once the weather picks up.

Went with ecumaster as they supported clio2 dash via can, and everything else was piggyback at the time. With decent other options available now id pick whatever suits, maxxecu and haltech are good, i would pick the best spec out of all 3 and roll with it. Ive went with ecumaster for my kangoo...

U shaped brass connectors, bought mine years ago but these look the same. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0FQC9NLR3/?tag=cliospnet01-21

They are absolute dogshit. Never seen a good one yet! Ive only recently used wago's, they are god tier for a quick fix to get you out of the s**t.

Cheers mate. Agreed ive seen both crimp and solder done well and both done equally terrible. One thing i despise are them fcuking insulated crimps, terrible in most circumstances. Soldering still good for resuing a terminal in a fix. Crimp defo faster though, the longest part is stripping the...

Tested to destruction and the wiring snapped instead of pulling out of the connector. The advantage is being able to use them in tight spaces on substandard wiring if you need to where solder nedds flux and hope that it will join. £60 set of crimpers and your set up. I used to solder everything...

Get yourself a good crimper and uninsulated crimps/dual wall heatshrink for automotive wiring joins. Absolute game changer compared to soldered joints.

Looks right from memory. Id go for a valeo one as not much more expensive.

Hard to say being honest, prob wont hurt. If you do change it torque to the correct spec as knock sensors can be very fussy. Im sure its around 20nm torque spec for it but might be wrong without looking. Are you using your regular source of 95octane or a different garage? Could stick some super...

The mrs 225 has same issue on rear heated window, i also tried the paint and no joy. Worth a shot though, 2nd coat wont hurt

Not sure depends on what data you can get to show. If you were closer id stick rstuner on it for you to verify knock sensor is doing something or not.

Before you do anything you need to verify if its actually knocking or not, datalog knock sensor to see if its pulling timing and/or det cans and check the fuelling. Usually if its audiable det itll be causing damage fast.

I run this setup on my clio trophy. https://cliosport.net/threads/t-turbo-is-back.536356/page-6 Kangoo will be on ecumaster this year.

Best solution is to build a new wiring loom for the standalone ecu. The original engine looms are well past their best on most clio2 now. X85 vvt is variable on pmw, and requires a cam sensor to monitor cam angle changes which 182 head does not have. Mine runs 197 head with cam sensor for full...

Cruise needs to be wired differently but can be setup. Asr probably wont work on any aftermarket ecu but thats no problem as its pretty crap, mine is disabled. Trip is also quite easy to get working. Not sure about auto windows, cant see how that would be related? Overall works well. No...

Fit a decent standalone ecu instead of piggyback, its much better overall. Ecumaster black, maxxecu, link all support the clio2 canbus so oem dash works ok

Will look mega with the new arches. Nice rollcage would complete the look 👀

Updates. Stripped the breaker 225 in a day. Big hole. These meganes are absolutely solid and it took a fair bit of 9" grinder action to get that off! Bodyshop has been booked for march. I suspect he will only need a small amount of the qtr but better off going big when cutting. Washed it...

Not suprised to hear the issues with the adjustable bushes. Poor design, the megane adjustable ones also move.