Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
what happened was:
I feared i may have had to pull out earlier, my aux belt decided it liked beig on its own and left the car, of course no tremp guage and now battery light meant i had no idea... until i stopped and i could hear it hissing and my heaters had gone cold :(
limped it to a fuel...
M10 threaded bar, preferably high-tensile. I usually use a headbolt.
A nut to fit, a 30+mm socket, plenty of washer.
Put the socket over the bar, a 30mm sits nicely on it to give loads of space, put the nut on the bar/bolt, along with a few washers, then wind it into the bar, then use the...
yep using the temp and level sesor from the valver.
beanies rev coun ter under-reads like i said. and for the at light its only 1 wire i need to run, just need to find where it goes on the valver side.
set the camber to -1degree. as for the tracking, you dont need the on the rear to set them, however you may need the front wings removed to put the guages on!
right on the fse you have 4 connectors yea?
1 vacuum, one IN one OUT and a return?
the fuel supply will go into the IN, and then the out will goto the fuel rail, the retrurn will just go on the pipework for the old valver return i belive. kinda hard to work it out without seeing it.
nah mate, some ph1 172s had only a supply fuel line not a return. mine did.
So if there is a space for areg and it wasnt fitted, chances are it never had one from the factory... so it'll need to go how waynes fitted his, not with the dummy reg.
no mate as my fuel rail had a space for a reg but it wasnt fitted.
just try running some fuel into it and if it pours straight out the bottom then you need a regualtor.
guess what, ive got one if that happens ;)
That he fitted it in ther wheeliebin beside his car and that yo shuldnt fit one...
anyway:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22617&d=1188854359
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l129/rich_zetecs/PICT0253.jpg
He has put it in the supply.
If you read what he was doing you'd understand he needs one ffs.
Right for a better answer, it goies inline, if you look at waynes thread you can see how he did it.
Oh so it was a bored out jobbie..
I'll tell you now its not a straight forward swap, and for the exhaust do what someone else did on here and go and get it made by powerflow...
little bits dont work here and there i.e the oil level and temp guages, ive tried wiring those up but had no joy...
it wouldnt blow a fuse as its not taking more current than it should. plus there are no fuses on the earth side of things. IMO they should fit diodes inline to protect the ecu from such spikes.
right, mine is weighing in at 823kg with half a tank of fuel. dash board etc etc.
Seats, door cards, headlining,all the sound deadening, remove the aux tank, remove the sapre wheel and carrier, light weight wheels, light weight buckets, 4 points, any bolts etc not needed, rear seat belts, any...
Also, for the dash, the rev counter doesnt work, and when you get it working it under reads. the temperature guage is also a problem, as there is no output on the ecu for temperature from the cts. if you splie into the cts signal it works until you get upto temp when it must add a load of...
The manifold goes between the bulkhead and the subframe, so the valver pas pipes get in the way. so you'll have to either run a new set of pipes, or see if the 172 rack will fit.
Im running no PAS and tbh the steering isnt that heavy compared to if the vaklver lump was in there.
You can run...