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love Cadwell, great vids. I hope weathers as good Saturday as I'm there for the full day :)

as above, the best thing you can do is take it on track as it is stock standard and firstly see if you enjoy track (no for everyone, even people who think they'd love it don't necessarily do so) and secondly as soon as you get the hang of it you'll instantly begin to notice the areas where the...

he/she must of cleaned it, everytime I've seen it its been fecking ditched!lol!

think I've seen that a couple of times, on the back road out towards Ripley parked on left coming out the village?

I think it cleans up the front well, however it comes with the risk of plod pulling you over (a risk I take)

wasn't so much at you rather than at my attempts to explain being a bit convoluted :) usually find parts finders on reg aren't great at the little differences like that, knowledge is power though so good call coming to the forums and hope you get sorted :)

yes as you say, its the centre section on the early ones that's longer as the cat is shorter. for yours with the 2 lambdas you need the short centre section as your cat is longer, rofl!

Cheers Ph1 Tom I'll give them a call :)

After the rolling road, I removed my front springs to measure them up (incorrectly as it turns out) to spec up some new firmer ones in doing so I noticed my shiny new subframe was coated in a thin film of oil/grease of some sort. not loads, but some. So bit of poking about and I found this...

basically the phase 2 172 and twin lambda phase 1 172 systems are the same fitment, only the early single lambda phase 1 172 systems are different (longer)

treid Faulkner, nothing on the website (planned on buying from there) but I may ring them if not I'll have to bite the bullet and go European :(

they could well be, where can I get them from? if they aint the usual 2.25 or 2.5?

I have FK coilovers that run 2.5" ID springs in 7" flavour. they also have 3" helper springs I want to buy some higher lb springs for track use, so my question is what's my best option? leave the standard helpers in there and buy the 375lb I want in normal 7" fitment. Or should I buy some say...

I was only 0.7 behind in my lowly botched up 172 mk1 :P

calling in the debt so soon ;)

I tend to use old ginetta race slicks, dunlops or Michelins, usually medium compound and fit is usually 19/58 or 20/60 iirc.

full slicks for dry days, literally no point in anything else as they all utter toss in comparison i'm on RSR's for wet but not ideal, supposedly the R1R's are better in the wet so may try them next

Good results matey Nice to meet you chap, wounded I had to shoot and missed the vee. Looked lovely when I flashed at smaccy dees as you passed :)

ai good morning out, sorry for not chatting to everyone I was too busy being happy about the below result and taking pics i'll sort through them and post a thread of the 5 or 6 cars I got pics of tomorrow if I can be arsed :) my result, pretty pleased with that!

Went to Dynotec at Ripley today with some of the East Midlands crew, big thanks to ThomasBrentnall for organising a good little morning out :) and I had a pleasant surprise as well ;)

see you kids in a bit :)

the women were dirty, or the underwear, or a bit of both ;)

# well get them on there, ruins it with no caps ;)

lovely mate, still miss mine as well, wish I'd of kept at least one of them :( where's the centre caps ;)

I did the same, binned off the phase 1 for a 182 FF in RB and never looked back. I did like my phase 1 but it was a bit of a shitter and although I prefer the look of the phase 1 from the front, everything else about the 182 I prefer.

as above, stick on Velcro works best, can remove the plates to clean behind them too then ;)

they break, I lose them, couple of sets of wheels I have I never even got any for for the exact reasons mentioned of them breaking or going walkies, I run stud conversion on one of my cars so no need to centralise the wheel to put bolts in. to say its luck I would call misguidance, they are not...

i'll repeat, I have run, on track with no spigots for entire trackdays on full slicks with no issues whatso ever. and by the looks of things you have come to the same conclusion as to what was at fault and that's the paint on the bolt seats on the new wheels.

welcome, my first clio was a 1994 1.4 RT, great little cars

spigots still wont make a difference though, if the micro movement as you put it is occurring, even with perfect spigots only the up/down movement would be eliminated on the load bearing centre, they could still slip rotationally by that logic. unless is a combo of both. personally I reckon...