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i'll be buying this for the ps4 I reckon.
got it on PS3 but never got round to really playing it as my first ps3 died not long after i got it and didn't replace it until after I bought the ps4,doh! I have a habit of mothballing old consoles and keeping them but just never using them which is a...
a mint Williams 1 should be worth over 5k all day long
the 2's and 3's tend to go for a bit less as less desirable
personally if it was my only car I'd use my head, not my heart, and go with a phase 1.
it could be chopped out yes but no easier for a bodyshop to refit more than likely and tbh most have rust somewhere so the likelihood of finding a good useable and trouble free second hand panel is slim
just get it to a bodyshop and get some advice imo, they no what they can and cant do.
my...
it has flared ones like the 1.8 16v. the poverty spec (RSi and below) have none flared rear arches and the chassis are also slightly longer.
the only readily, cheaply and easily available rear arch repair panels are poverty spec, as such they have to be modified to flare and fit the 1.8 16v or...
Experienced the rattle for the first time this weekend...............but not on mine! :)
Mick's old phase 2 172 was at Blyton while I was there Sunday so I blagged a shotgun in it and Christ that rattle is crazy.
on the plus side the kit I fitted to my mk1.........no rattle at all! no idea if...
any decent bodyshop worth its salt will be able to either fabricate you new or modify poverty spec panels to fit.
don't pay a little though, sub par job will mean it'll simply come back, spend some cash and get it done right if you want to keep/restore the car
where you based?
I used to run EBC on the turbo with the hi specs, the yellowstuff were about the best but I tried yellow, green and red and none lived upto the RC6's I eventually ended up with
however this was 5-6 years back so as you say if they have revised their compounds then could be worth another shot if...
I see same like 5 every day or so round here and I know of loads more locally, they seem to be all over the shop!
living where I do helps though, tourist area so loads of interesting cars/bikes come and go all the time in the summer
no idea on paint costs, but basically RB was a popular one
267 - Black Gold
647 - Titanium
D38 - Inferno
F94 - Petrol Blue
J37 - Liquid Yellow
J41 - Arctic Blue
J45 - Racing Blue
1,957...
and here's the current 'list'
To Do:
Repair leaking washer bottle and fill (DONE)
Underseal sills
Paint sills red (DONE)
Buy/fit bleed nipple dust covers for callipers (DONE)
Fit door pulls (DONE)
Change/remove aerial
Sort tow strap front (DONE)
Investigate vibration on heavy acceleration...
Exhaust refitted with new from Renault fitting kit on manifold side so that not bodged up with random nuts and crap now
PMS linkage clears the new lambda location lovely so that sorted
replaced the ripped out tow eye with a crappy tow strap, I've used the front subframe bolt for it so its...
front on the turbo was 20mm bolt ons chap on standard very narrow valver track.
I used this setup on trackdays too with no issues etc
most of the info I'm providing is obviously fairly useless to you though mate unfortunately as it applies to setup on mk1 Clios.
I used to run similar on the turbo, I had 15mm rear spacers with longer stud and nut kit and worked great, so same could be applied to the 10mm for sure
as above, I have tried to research this a bit as well but seems to be no hard and fast rules.
mines a bit more of a quandary too as I cant easily adjust the rears as its torsion bar. so I'm unsure at to optimum spring rates really.
will watch this with interest
i currently run 15mm front and 10mm rears with cup offset turini's and eibach springs on cup shocks on the 182. no rubbing.
however this is road use, not track, so its hard to say really. the track car gets some rub but that's on its bottom with full 172 front end and fat as fcuk slick son et37...