Search results

I’m using the orange Sonax at the moment and it’s really good. Although I normally use Autosmart Duet - because cheap - so can’t really compare the sonax to much else.

I wasn’t implying he didn’t, I just wanted to know why he positioned himself on the outside. (Didn’t watch the whole video, only the gory bits! Lol)

Who was it driving? And why (forgive my ignorance) we’re you trying to overtake on the left? Weren’t you coming up to a right handed bend??

Completely different tyre. NS2R are a good fun budget tyre. AR-1’s however are a LOT grippier, have infinitely stiffer sidewalls and won’t overheat anywhere near as quickly. But they’re about double the price. Depends what you want from your tyres really.

Has this track car done any track days Kyle?

Autoglym super resin polish. And don’t take it to the local scratch and shine because the chemicals they use discolor them. Also, never wash them when they’re hot. Today’s stripe care was brought to you by ‘Daniel’.

I’m in the white clio - ds1.11 pads Mate in the black/red clio - ds1.11 pads Mate in the MX5 - ds1.11 pads. See here;

Heat cycles have been known to crack discs that are drilled/grooved. Plain discs are cheap, do the job fine and as such I see no need to essentially waste more money. My friend has a clio with Willwood 4 pots, J hook discs, and CL pads and yes he has immense stopping power but he chews...

I use Brembo HC plain discs, standard calipers and DS1.11 pads, cheap Euro car parts fluid. I’ve done 6 track days on this setup and not only have I had zero brake fade but the brakes still have well over 60% left in them. Not even close to being worn out. I can stamp on them at whatever speed...

I was talking to our tyre suppliers last week about stock and how they’re struggling. He said a container from China/over that way used to be anything from £1200-1800. Since Covid it’s £10,000. And that’s just the container, let alone the price rises of the tyres inside. I’d imagine a lot of...

I’ve been in your position and can offer you the following advice… You will probably be able to claim that under warranty - providing you have a full (and I mean full!) service history carried out at VAT registered garages and they have also stamped the bodywork inspection sections of your...

Is that when something gets scored/too hot/burnt? We went to see a man not long ago who was repairing an M4 and had the engine in pieces. Said he’s doing loads of them. I wasn’t really listening though. But he had what looked like burnt rod bearings in his hand. 😂

Sounds like the engine is t fully up to temperature. Ignore the temperature gauge, they take a good 20-30 minutes to get hot enough for the ECU to allow it to rev to the redline.

Be careful supplying your own parts. The three garages I use, none of them will warrant their Labour if they don’t supply the parts. If I was you, I’d find a specialist local to you and take it there. Where abouts are you?

I think they hold 3.5 liters from memory? Just keep going.

We’ve had a few; LS2 V8 - centre silencer removal, straight pipes fitted, new flexi’s. £150 Kangoo van; custom cat back with side exit; £300 Mustang V8 - x pipe, mid section and custom silencers, £1100 Mk1 clio 172 conversion; manifold back system, took him literally 10 mins. 😂 £150.

That’s lovely!!

No not yet. And there’s good reason… I’ve got a very addictive personality and I’m genuinely scared I’ll be on it all the time. Everyone I’ve spoken to says it’s amazing and I’m petrified it will ruin my life. 😂

Yes mate, got the Oculus thing, the one with the biggest memory. Used it twice and not looked at it since. 😂

👀

Sadly not. Honestly mate, it was a struggle just to drive let alone worry about the go pro. It was 31 degrees at 1pm. And I’m fat.

Another day at Castle Combe, to say it was too bloody hot is a massive understatement. Car was faultless again and apart from my mates ludicrous FD2, nothing overtook me all day. I’m at the limit with the car now though. I can’t make it go any faster. I’m consistently 1.21’s. So I’m...

Probably tree sap or overspray. Get yourself a clay bar. Piss easy to sort. (On a side note, every car I buy myself I clay all the glass and clean it with Anglewax, it’s the best thing ever putting new wiper blades on and when it rains it’s orgasmic)

It’s essentially a body control module. Controls the wipers, lights etc etc. The hundreds of tiny solder joins break and crack and causes issues like you’re describing. Very easily and cheaply fixed though so no worries.

Under the glovebox is the UCH. Unplug it and plug it back in a few times. If the problems go away your UCH is on its way out. Plenty of people on EBay repair them cheap enough.

I’ve now got them in mine and I’m by the car now. What pics do you want?

In my (limited) experience, you need to check the following; Starter motor wires. These are very old engines now, there’s every chance the wires are corroded inside. My 2007 car just had to have two new cables because the wires were corroded and it was very lazy to start. Starter motor...

I’d love one but those chocolate gearboxes fill me with fear.

If Josh Cook was ok with 50+ in his rear tyres in his 182 on track, 40 is good enough for me. 😂

No not at all. It’s really really safe and predictable. Apart from a diff (and the driver) I can’t fault anything with the car.