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my clio lived with 8000rpm for the entire time i had it. Why 102 fuel, and why the plugs.......alone you wont really see any gain.

eh, if you took it apart you can put it back together cant you?

yes, its just tight. If you want you can undo the top engine mount, put a jack under teh summp and lift it a few inches........ Chip, it would be hard to change a fanbelt on a valver if there was one....;)

compare price vs performance though. On track there will be nill diff between final lap times really.......but one will cost near 300 quid a set, and one a tad over 100. hmmmmmmmmmm

any motorfactors, GFS, eurocarparts..........its all the same stuff

below 20C on water temp

echo echo echo echo

If you ask me, the megane will be a better car as the new megane chassis is already better than the clios.

yes it does, i specifically remember passing a noble and stretching a large gap......wheres the pic gone..........

yup, bearing......bout 40 quid from ren.

grippy, dont wear that bad as ive dont about 30 laps on the 2 diff tracks and they are holding up fine, still about 5 mil of tread. THe sidewall is a tad soft and likes a little bit more camber than euro tyres, but apart from that they are great for the price.

Pi are fine, as are msot of the other springs........there isnt much to get wrong with manufacturing. Go for it, perfectly fine stuff.

the knock sensor cant tell what RON you use, but it helps when you use a poor grade or incorrect fuel by retarding the ignition when a frequency from pinking or knock is detected.

as long as its not a pencil high pressure wash, you wrap what you can and dont aim at sensors and its left to dry then its perfectly fine within reason. BUt you can damage some sensors if not careful

Righto mate. Ill fit some different compound pads when im back, they are cheap so you can test a couple compounds to see which one you like. If thats not enough, there are larger discs available. Suspension, coilovers will cost a litte, and the H&R ones that ive fitted and tried are...

the pinchbolt always is a tad tough getting the hub off the stub. Left side is easier.

Check for scoring on the disc to see is something is wrong.

Its not a leak or wear. The engine runs hot with no specific oil cooling system. ALOT of oil is reduced to vapour with the under piston oil sprays and is burnt in the breather system. Think of it this way, at least your not running on mega old used oil for long as your always topping up! lol

Weve been over this a hundred billion times, do a search and youll find more info than you care to read. In laymands, you can sue the block with your 16V head & fly to attain a 2ltr capacity.

without any of the manufactuer and spring specs you cant really tell a diff, and i doubt there is any real diff between the lot of them.

no, you message me you lazy bugger! ;)

the amount of air it can flow without restriction affects the max bhp you can make using that filter. I have seen some large capacity cars make 10-20bhp by talking off their incorrectly sized air filters.

yea, sorry.......my jokes tend to do that to people. Thats why they cant write lol in their replies! anyway, like seeing your work.

Those are mukini slide throttle carbs......no butterflys. Interesting conversion, not finished it looks so dont worry abut missing filters and tape.....easily sorted. Those carbs are fine and used in many conversions over here and in japan as manifolds can be made easily......shame his is...

indeed, but a good name is a good name eh! people like good names. OMG! your missing a bolt! . . . . . . . . . . just kiddin! ;)

easy. nearside, hub nut off with wheel on......breaker bar used, have a new nut handy. wheel, disc, calipers off. Get the rod end off (tricky sometimes if seized.....place a jack under the rd end and lift it up......the pressure will induce stiction so it wont rotate with the nyloc nut, do...

The V6 is flacid and unstressed in std form. The cup racers get 285bhp from a simple cam, spring, twin plenham and new ECU change.......nothing is really touched. The ECU wont up power by any drastic amount, but as liquid says......drivability may (never tested one) be better.

Another clean and quality job. Very nice andy........your really spewing out alot of work lately! nice BTW, happy new year mate.

The viper has a tendancy to tear its filter........keep it well maintained and oiled. Check it as often as you can.

they will, but running std dampers is fine. I know you will, but just make sure the Microcellular Jounce Bumpers (oops, i mean bumpstops) are fine so you wont damage the valving.