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He said it did it from cold though, i assume this means a cold start, then switch off and the aux system will kick in.

Dunno about the Renault GrpN effort, but out map saw a noticable reduction in economy.......

DOnt bothe, for less money you cna see far bigger gains from traditional modifying.

try a new one then.

your would have to plumb in some sort of bias control aswell as your drums wont have any and 172 axles dont have any....they run off the EBD and ABS computer dictates bias......forexample, if you remove the ABS control then youll run a 50/50 split which aint good.

i was reffering to the cam lobe profiles such as flat noses, fast acceleration, flanks, ramps etc etc, not cam timings (which are wild for a production car, but not considered wild as such.

yea, just trying to get the image across though, or there will be confusion at a later date.

eeeeeew....... Dunno, i would usually go for something like a hachiroku, ITR....erm, the early Celica Turbo 4x4........the one before that horrid round headlight thing....that was a fun car....dunno, as with any car youll end up spending loads of cash on it. A GTi-R might be tunable, but...

The 172 doesnt use tappets. It has roller followers which is why it cna run such an acressive cam profile.....its really rather chunky. This roller follower (like an arm with a roller bearing on the elbow) is pivoted on one end (like a shoulder) via a hydraulic pivot which takes up the...

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Its not a wear issue, its due to the tappets draining and cold viscous oil taking a long time to fully prime the tappets. When it warms its less viscous an has an easier life.

Issues with the race cars is that when you lower it you also gain some freedom to alter other suspension factors such as pickup points....effectively you can lower the car without affecting the suspension/roll geometry too much. And being a one make series a fair amount can be done as each...

if you want low down torque, retain your std cams and get a gasflowed head.

castor/camber is not adj on a std valver.

oil on the electrodes of the ceramic sheath of the plug?

to get the car running a ok, about 30 mins, but to get it running spot on, maybe 2-3 hrs. Depends on max complexity.

thats why its worn out!

doi!!! you stated in the first post! MK1 lol Iside that round plastic car is the rotor arm, it distributes the spark to each cylinder. The HT lead from the centre to a metal looking block on the nearside wing, thats the coil and ignition module assembly.

Dunno how its earthing into the resin though!

Oh, is this a clio II were talking about....not the old one? If its the new one youll have a coilpack

the dizzy

is it earthing on the ignition module or the dizzy?

Redline oils. They are good frictionreducers but need regular changing as its service life is short. And it aint cheap! I would use either the recommended Elf 75w80, torco 75w90 or any other synthetic 75w90 that meets the required quality codes.

The box oil isnt required to be changed, just topped up, but it might be a good idea, the proper oil is expensive though. synchro wear can be bad yea, sepecially if people drive with their hand on teh knob and change gear poorly.

they all go on the same places...near the sill and along the arch edges. Inside the boot etc.

nobody does......its not profitable to undertake a development program. your only chance is to provide somebody like Newman with a profile to re-grind yours or from billet.......they have a program that will prevent you from making a ballsup of cam design aswell as itll just reject it if its...

erm, thats teh nature of oil viscosity.

too much is how you say, too much.

which box did you get?

start up im assuming now is 0c or similar.... and what oil are you using? Mine will idle at 5 bar when stone cold.