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got to be worth trying a crank sensor then, you never know.

that's why i was thinking lambda but if you ain't running one and fueling is solely down to the map then that's next to look at? iat and cts both ok?

camber, caster, top mounts all ok etc?

if the pre tensioner has fired then you will be able to see the buckle will of pulled down and will be noticeably shorted than the other one.

i use an auto locksmiths local to me to do any i need, not sure who you'll have over there to do it?

there's some bloke from down that way with a well dodgy rep, apparently it looks spot on when you're travelling the opposite way:tongueclosed:

first off make sure the nipples and the metal pipes crack off ok, if not then 50/50 acetone and atf on them couple of times and leave to soak in for day or two. if you want to grab a set of these they make the job ten times...

how's your geometry? when you start chucking more torque into the pot then bad set up can make the car bloody awful to drive to say the least.

you'll also need the crash data clearing from the airbag ecu or replace it with another one.

yup, it's fit and forget.

well it's set to that and hasn't gone wrong yet!! might have a torsen diff to sell soon if you're interested? bought it for one of mine but doing vag box instead.

go for dirty diesel and more boost, the more black smoke the more fun they are:tonguewink:

don't suppose you can scope the crank sensor and see what it's like at 4,000? or chuck another one on if you've got a spare? the times i've had them play up they've given more of a hard cut rev limiter issue though.

still enjoying it then?

they do seem to work well top end that's for sure. mine picked up well after 5,000 then when we put cams in and billet flywheel it picked up a hell of a lot quicker, just wanted to keep revving. set the limiter at 7,900rpm. temped to stick 197/200 crank, rods and pistons in it, arp bolts on and...

lambda definitely isn't used?

had cranks sensors causing a hard misfire/cut but not like yours. would say look at what the lambda is doing, had a run over the last three or four weeks of iffy sensors either not bringing up a fault code or bringing random ones up. had some head scratching for sure!!

would be interesting to drive one running low boost to see how it compares to one on standard inlet, shame you didn't have graphs with both as a comparison.

the inlets, base of the plenum to the head.

looked at live data? will it rev past that ok?

assume that's with the runners being short? most low boost i've seen run around 230/230. mine lost around 10 lb/ft with the inlet on.

spoke to chris about that a while ago and came t the conclusion it don't really matter.

quoted myself there for you just to show where i'd already said about cutting due to the size of the filter:wink:

old mount will of been past it's sell by date.

What's the car actually doing? Few of those codes you can generally ignore as the come up as ghost codes a lot or if it loses power for a sec.

Check the carrier isn't bent open.

done new one with straight as well. the one pictured has got a chunk of the panel cut away as you can see the filter is bloody massive!!

straight fits...

Where was ticking coming from? Prone to manifolds cracking and that can grow a spanner in the works.

Straight hose is fine.