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It's not the same as a 182 crank as it doesn't have the sprocket for the chain driven oil pump on it.
It's only the later versions of the F7R that had the chain driven oil pump
The Clio F7R 700 crank is from the F8Q 1.9 diesel engine
The later Mégane F7R 714 & the RS Spider F7R 712 engines have the F9Q diesel crank which is the same as the 1*2 F4R
Then you've got the early Mégane F7R 710 but I can't remember exactly what that crank that used but was different to all...
Last time I looked they were about £14k +vat and the shafts about £1500-ish +vat for a pair 🤑
Also having the MSUK logbook will add a decent chunk to the price as the safety gear will be fairly new to be in date for racing
Just managed to snap the drivers side handbrake cable and in typical Renault fashion that one is NLA :rolleyes:
Does anyone know which pattern part is correct? I remember reading something about certain makes being the wrong length so don't fancy faffing around with trial & error
With yours being a 4 door the chassis number/code will start with B57 but a lot of parts places only list stuff with the 3 door code which starts C57 so that can screw up your search.
If you run into difficulty when searching for parts, use the chassis code for the 1.8 16v model which is C57D...
A smack with a hammer & punch usually does the trick to remove it as the heat from the powder coating oven will ruin it
It needs to be pressed in fully before going on the car, a big bolt, nut, socket and washer to wind it in will do the trick
MK1 and MK2 subframes are completely different so you can't really use them to compare
Yes that bush is supposed to be there, god knows why Renault did it but it is kind of important - causes an annoying knock when it's knackered but is an absolute ball ache to diagnose - so you deffo need to...
That actually looks surprisingly decent, I've not seen any of the ally rads that have got the holes drilled into it for fitting the standard fan brackets to before.
Williams & Valver rads are the exact same part
That sounds normal to me tbh, they're only going to be doing internal hydraulic stuff on the rack and cleaning up the outside to refurb it so stuff attached to the outside of it is only going to end up in the bin
Gear linkage - Remove the whole thing, it's only connected at the bottom of the gearstick by a single 13mm nut. It's also really easy to damage when you're fiddling with the subframe as it's only a thin walled hollow tube, plus you'll have a good opportunity to fit new bushes to the bottom of...
Does it have a MAP sensor?
Only ask as it's a fairly common thing on the 16v/Williams to have a similar issue if the MAP sensor is faulty, unplugged or has a leak in the vacuum hose for it
I don't know anything about it apart from it would have been worth around £1,000 - £1,500 at absolute max in 2008 so the damage to make it a Cat D will be pretty minor.
My Valver was written off as Cat D in 2008 & the cost to fix & make it mint again was £600 so there's no need to be too...
Depends what wishbones you're using tbh, if they're Williams, new ones don't really exist so refreshing them is certainly the best option.
If they're Valver arms then I'd personally just get new ones as they're readily available & not obscenely priced as they were also used on the lower spec...
What parts do you need and where abouts are you?
There's a fair few people scattered about the country (Essex, Reading, South Wales, Warrington/Manchester, Leicestershire/Derbyshire/Nottinghamshire) with hoardes of Mk1 Clio stuff so should be able to point you in the right direction
Impressive thread bump 😲
Have you got a link to the video? I've never seen it but I think there's a possibility I might recognise something.
There's a guy on the Williamsclio.co.uk forum that was in Wales and I think his name is Gareth & on the forum he's MAXIBOY
I could be talking utter...
Kinda wish I'd seen this thread sooner to tell you that it's possible to remove the engine with the loom still attached to it 🫣
It's just 2 plugs in the relay box, rad/fan connections and a couple of earth connections to undo. The wiring bundle for the ecu just needs to be unclipped from the...