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5 min ago me and a friend of mine went out to bump start the car. you should've seen the look on our faces when it started by itself. my conclusion: after 15 hours of cooling down the starter motor got cold again and magic happened

it's not even turning over, thought that even if the TDC has issues it'll still try to turn. correct me if wrong. anyway, I'll give that a check too if can't jump start first. hope the rain stops now..

you mean connect/reconnect and clean if the case?

no clicking noise when attempting to start, just silence.. :( I hope I won't need another motor, I'll try to jump start soon and then go to check it out somewhere

heelp! :( I'll need the car by tomorrow morning

went out this evening and after a few stops the car refused to start. after turning the ignition on and attempting to start nothing happened, the dash lights turn off like normal but no other noise or anything. dropped down the window and the fuel pump is ok, you can hear it no problem. I also...

I thought that's the way to bed in properly: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

you can always take a measure and see what's what ;)

mine was touching about in the same spots. now it hangs on the wall if it's a cup, then no cover if not and rattles, definitely remove it

yeah it's quite ghetto imo too but it seems to get the job done stock 182 FF vs 172 with the ported inlets and head, remap and k&n induction: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKOpri0uVBQ&feature=related

the crank pulley on a turbocharged fiesta ST has loosened up and caused some damage. I've heard the solution to prevent this is a safety pin on the pulley to keep it in place. now were there any Tcharged clios having this problem? has anyone used this on their SC/TC clios? regards

a friend of mine did this on his 172 and a couple of other cars and the guys said the car definitely pulls better after. not sure about the head porting thing, is there any risk in doing this beside the inlets? he also ported the exhaust manifold. I know for sure the cars go better but is it...

what about the DS performance pads? are they ok for fast road driving?

hmm so 2500 then you say.. the OE pads have around 7 mm of compound left

I'm getting soon a pair of brembo HC on the front as my originals are nearly gone. Question is will I have to change the pads ( OE pads at the moment) as they have plenty of life left in them. If not will I have to bed them in to the new discs as with new pads? Thanks! p.s: please recommend me...

you said you're runnin 205/45 r17 tyres? if so they're too big, have a look at what k-tec are selling for 17" wheels (195/40 r 17) stock you are 195/45 r16 so for 17 you'll need a 40 profile with the same width.

not a trophy owner but.. definitely DO IT! there are few cars which are that good in stock condition, it's quite nice to know you'll probably never have to upgrade it that much.. red, speedline, sachs, recaro's, and probably already a classic hot hatch too bad there are only 50 trophy's that I...

some caliper paint and you'll get an A+ :D maybe black, or some decent color good job anyway ;)

not sure if this will sort anything but if I'll have the chance I'll give it a go. The idle is lumpier than what i've seen on other 1*2's. also the engine sits now rock-solid with all the mounts fitted (can't move it 1 mm with my hands)

not sure what "Uprated Inline Type Lower Engine Mount Bushes" is but the three others left you can find on k-tec's website and as far as I know they're all what you need to change. there's another engine mount between the subframe and the gearbox but that one can remain stock as it doesn't...

why not go with the factory setup? I think when renault threw 205's in they knew what they're doin'

to be honest my car vibrates A LOT but that's due to the already lumpy idle that I had/have. I've fitted the two k-tec engine mounts along with the dogbone poly one and I'm sure they are fitted correctly. So my advice: before fitting make sure your idle is as smooth as possible or else.. :free...

^ I think not :( but why the hell are there so few 60 mm bolt coilovers? ok I know it's a rarer size but still..

^ that's what I intend to do also

^^ exactly

Yes the bolt spacing I know it's 4 mm extra on the cupped 182's but I've read something around here regarding the ball joints and couldn't remember exactly what

as I'm aware the 172 range has the same hubs (bolt hole spacing is definitely the same at least)

offtopic: are the cup pack 182 ball joints different from the 172 ones? larger bolt holes if I can recall?

maybe the braking force is applied uneven between the front wheels? (faulty brakes ?)

arrgh you're on coillies.. :( what initially made me take these measures was a friends 172 which sat clearly lower (on front especially) and he's on stock suspension as well. then I've seen a couple of pics of other 182's and they all seemed lower in the front. maybe I'm getting paranoid but...