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if you stay with the negative camber at decent values (-1 degree should be ok) I don't think you'll have to worry about tyre wear too much. just my opinion
although I'm running these mounts, I'd recommend the AST ones, as they are adjustable.
k-tec ones are ok so far, almost a year on them, but now I'd really like something to play with :(
don't worry about the ride, I felt no difference at all, just the steering felt a bit more precise. mind you, I'm also on the powerflex suspension bushings. So no worries, probably will be one of the best upgrades to your suspension ;)
these are more like the rs2's I guess and they look nice :D. wear rate is higher but they do grip better (or so people say) than the ku31. looks like a good alternative to the rs2. anyone tried them?
http://www.tyretest.com/pkw_sommerreifen/kumho/ecsta_mx_ku15/index.html
just found out that the 182's have the fuel filter inside the tank, and indeed they should be changed at 150 k. problem is, I have an external one, near the fuel tank, similar or even identical to the ones found on ph1 172's
pic in this thread...
bump on this! I have the same thing, external fuel filter, maybe non UK cars have this maybe?
if so, what's the service interval for this?
mine is CB22 so we have a dilemma here
prices above are for the 172/182 rs models. forgot you got a 1.2. there is a 285 mm disc brake kit at k-tec which seems a good deal if you are about to make an improvement. otherwise go for some uprated pads (plenty of threads about this), they should be cheaper than the 172/182 ones
cheers!
Fred@ btm
but they are trackday or fast road pad, unless you're planning to hammer it from time to time I suggest buying something cheaper. ds 2500 are about 110-120. Ds performance about 90. mintex even cheaper. EBC-they crack as I've seen
too expensive and will need a more aggressive pad as those grooves chew on most pads. why pay extra 50 just on some grooves? I was thinking about these discs also but eventually bought the brembo HC, plenty of people here are runnin' these with good feedback
put some cash aside and get the AST solid top mounts. if you have problems with the bushes you may also have to replace the lower arms bushes. If that's the case I suggest buying 2 new lower arms which came with new bushes and balljoints installed. about 80 euro's per arm (in my country at...
are they the eibach ones? where did you get them? I suppose you're on them for a while, is the tyre wear a problem? and how is the handling, worth the hassle of getting them?
cheers!
Have to say that kamracing delivered a package to me in record braking time. once the package left their door it arrived in ONE day to me. quite impressive for a near 3000 km journey
Keep it up KamR! :approve:
LOL get a flashlight and try to press out the metal sleeve that holds the larger bush (I think that's the one causing you problems)
I can't tell you exactly how to do that as I didn't fitted mine but the guy who did the job sorted it out pretty quickly.
ok I know motul is a great oil, this is why I began using it , problem is, why suddenly the car consumes it? the theory I've came across earlier about the mixing with the elf being left in the engine seemed plausible at that moment but didn't expect the level to drop again in just 1000-1200 km...
update on this:
checked the oil today and it seems like it drank yet another 3-400 ml since the last check ~1000 km ago.
so in 8000 km it drank about a liter and the last 1000 about 3-400 ml. this is strange because the oil looks good (color wise)
I'm going to have it serviced in a week or so...
went last night to a car park and had some fun with the car but then seen this an wondered if some negative camber would help..
you can see how much flex the tyre suffered, was wondering if I could throw in some camber bolts on the stock dampers
do you think 1-1,2 neg camber on the front would...