Search results

Pretty sure they are manufactured by Norbar so its a no brainer really

The halford's ones are identical to Norbar ones, and as said above try get one on trade card or join the motoring club and try get a money off voucher. I have the below halfords ones and covers most things from engine components to wheel bolts. They do a range of 4, I went for 2nd lowest & 2nd...

Top mounts was another sore point with our regs, as some were running solid top mounts such as PMS with their strut brace and that was a no no aswell. I proper 4 wheel laser alignment geo setup will do it the world of good aswell when you get your B14's on. I would also consider fitting cup...

Cheers, may just revert back down that route. No progress for next 10 days while Im away You go to all the effort to renew 'one use' bolts / nuts where required and you end up having to back them off again to redo timing 😂

Be careful if considering the roll centre kit, as it has rose joints which will affect the class you are in for hills / sprints. Im in A2 in Scotland, road going cars so allowed quite a few mods however blue book states that bushing material can be uprated for poly etc however no rose joints...

Spoke to Nick as I was messaging about the tensioner issues. The provide a cap screw for this application as the countersink on the cams swallows up some of the length. Link below incase anyone else comes across this or for future searching. Cheers for the info struggler, definately looks alot...

Photos for reference

Mulled this over for a few days and thought must be ok as even if there was a deeper thread in the cat cams, it wouldn't matter as would still bottom out on the non - threaded shoulder on the stud Torqued the exhaust cam and low and behold, didnt get enough 'stretch' to gain a full nut. Have...

Running a 'performance' car, fuel prices are going to be the least of your worries and you can't neglect some of the costs, whether its fuel or maintenance. With regards to fuel consumption, these can be fairly economical (for what they are) when driven sensibly / steady runs

Yeah I did check and see if they had anything but just the full kit as you say. No real rusj, just had my milestone was getting it finished off so once Im home I would then get the engine back in. Frustrating but Id rather it was right

Unfortunately dingbro had no stock in the company so got a gates one coming from autodoc. Unfortunately Im away Tuesday for 2 weeks so it will be burning away in the back of my head for the meantime

Anyone came across this issue with fitting a new exhaust cam stud on cat cams? With the nut just nipped up (not torqued) Im not getting a full nut and I doubt I would gain 2 - 3 threads when torquing. Genuine new stud used and wound in until bottomed out on the shoulder. Bit wary to build it...

Im going to have the bore of the pulleys worn out the amount of rotating the belt Iv done, still only getting the below. Stuck on the old tensioner, and can get the notches to line up on it. Think I'll order another new tensioner as I just don't trust this one now

I can get the marks near by manipulating the belt as the tensioner approaches the marks but still, from guides it seems it should be a straightforward process to align the marks. Everything moves freely with the tensioner, all pulleys flush etc etc

Manual states about not moving the tensioner itself anti clockwise when setting it Iv rotated it endless amount of times to try and even out the belt tension, and still the marks are stopping just short

In the process of setting the cambelt tension with a new schaeffler tensioner as part of the kit, and following the Renault guide & also stone automotive's youtube video (only difference I see is he rotates anti clockwise and manual states clockwise) When aligning the marks on the tensioner, I...

Cheers for the reply, I modified it last night following a few others saying they had the same problem. I started to think Id ordered the wrong pump or something. Nick also replied today and says it seems to be a lottery with the trays, some fit straight on and some need some fettling. Bottom...

Im just attempting to fit the plastic windage tray following fitting the larger oil pump. The tray fouls on the oil pump before it even gets near the mounting lugs or hole. Anyone else came across this issue? Iv contacted PMS to see if theres been a change in pump design or what the crack is...

Link doesnt seem to have worked but was posted on 12th November if you want to look back. I also have a few screenshots from the manual that others had posted on here with the method for doing the No.1 main that I can send if you haven't came across them on here while searching

Ah, that makes sense now. I didnt even twig at the time. I haven't got a thread as such but just picked up all the info from various posts on here. Feel free to drop me a DM with any queries, just literally done the no.1 main last week. I had noticed a post on AW Motorworks facebook page...

Apologies, I looked it up after posting & 5980 isn't anerobic (non setting) so no use for cam cover & can't edit my post

Great build thread and good to see another Phase 1. I'm going through some engine upgrades just now and similar to yourself, pulled the engine out the car so I could work on it properly and have everything cleaned up. ITB's and ARP rod bolts turned into cams also which meant timing belt kit and...

I may be wrong but I would just use the 5980 for the cam cover also

Looks like its the tab for supporting / locating the plastic tray. Frogjam's website mentions it Fitting this pump does require modification to the sump pan - some areas need grinding away in order to achieve sufficient clearance for the oil pickup. Similarly you will need to fabricate and fit...

I used Loctite SI 5980, comes in a compressed tube like many of the others. Definately worth doing while 8n that deep, only problem is you will also have to disturb rear crank seal which can be a bugger to get it to seal properly

Interesting about the oil pump as iv just had the engine on stand and sump off to do rod bolts, no.1 bearing cap reseal etc

Whilst engines out the car Im going to address any common leaks and also I couldnt exactly pin point my small leak. Iv already done no.1 bearing cap and will install new main crank seal. Next Iv got the gasket for front crank seal housing and wondered if theres any pointers for the front crank...

I thought it was advised against skimming flywheels or is that the standard ones people refer to? Clutch is fine so planning to reuse, also was running fine with no issues which makes me hesitant to change and throw it back together 😂

Pulled the engine out the car to do timing belt and fix a few leaks. Below is the condition of the TTV flywheel, been on the car 4 - 5 years but probably seen no more than a dozen sprints / hills. Was running a CG motorsport clutch. Is the below ok to reuse or does it warrant replacing?

Perfect, I'll have a dig around. Many thanks