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Personally ditch the SwirlX and replace it with Menzerna 3.02 for the harsher marks, 85RE for refinement.
Sonus pads are very hard wearing, so are good for newbies. Don't forget you need spot pads and back plates for the tighter areas, like bumpers and pillars.
Ahhh, Nautical blue reps;
For the dash and interior plastics, I dust down with a soft brush, then a diluted APC on a MF will soon see a decent clean. Protection wise, you have a fair bit of choice. Have a look on the I4D/PB websites and choose your poison.
Starting from the beginning;
Wet and dry vacs are used to extract dirty water and soap from seats and upholstery. The idea being you can "scrub" them with a cleaner and then "rinse" them, without getting the seats soaking wet. AS Biobrisk is a good start and to protect, look at i1 from...
Cheers gents.
This should last Kev, I pressure wash them and agigate every wash fella, so should keep them up to scratch. They were well prepped as well, with IPA etc, so should see a good bond.
Big time, they appear to be the worst possible positioning. Worst I've come across on any car/wheel...
Hi.
So had a day off from work yesterday as I have a few to use up before I leave at the end of this month - whoop!
So anyway, I decided almost nine years of crud, tar and salt was enough for my poor arches, so decided to give them a decent going over. Sadly, the day did not quite go to plan...
If you look after them, wash mitts last.
Hated the Yeti, hated the wookie. Too large and cumbersome. And the drain a standard sized bucket.
Eurow last well and are soft enough. The Easiriders are alsoeant to be very good.
Depends on the painter. If they've used VAG paint, it'll be hard. If they used cheap paint like Renault stuff, it'll be soft.
What do you mean by the last bit?
Going at it this month, eh Neil :)
Wash down, clay, wash, dry, polish, seal. So the same as paint work really.
Fk1000p is great on wheels. Poorboys Wheel Sealant is also perfect.