Search results

That was my 2nd time there I think - been back 3 or 4 times since though.

It is. Standard springs, standard dampers, standard everything on the chassis except brakes and tyres.

180 is ambitious - The ECU adds nothing other than a higher limiter so probably a real 175 or so. Don't plan on touching the engine any further, brakes are top-notch already, just got to finish stripping it, then fit steering wheel, seat, harness, and some proper suspension next year.

I had semi-click track tyres on - probably worth 2-3 seconds per lap. Looking at my lines on that clip though, there's still another 2-3s to be had.

:o No matter how much I try I can't stop doing that!

Mine's still a largely lifeless barge but with a very mobile rear end. Loving the power-oversteer though.

Nice one Lee.

They are road legal and FIA approved - and for approx. £50 a corner, they're also a f****** bargain!

I fancy trying some of these out - but nowhere seems to have them in stock. The Colway office main number when I dial it no longer exists, and if I dial the fax number it just rings and rings. Have they gone bust?

Is that not why? Because you keep flooring it so you can hear it?

I love your links Mr s. Nice one.

My Omega costs me £70 a week. Thinking about it, that's ridiculous. What should I change it for? It's only worth £1,500 or so.

It seems they are. Genuine top speed seems to be around the 165mph mark.

I'd have the 350. I'm curious, can they really do 178mph standard but are restreicted?

Glad you're unhurt. Well done for admitting that you cause it as you were in a hurry. 9 out of 10 people on here if they did the same thing would normally claim "the car just spun, I don't know why, I wasn't going to fast or anything". Being critical of your own driving is the only way to...

Love the white. Jammy b*****d though - I've been there 4 times this year and on each and every visit it's properly lashed it down all day long.

www.kenable.co.uk This place is recommended by one of the mods on avforums - ridiculous prices.

Understeer is caused by too much steering angle, too much speed, or a combination of both. To stop it, you must remove the cause. Easing off the throttle has the risk that you'll get the oversteer that caught you out so should only be done very gently. The other option is the steering, so...

Ahh, I see. I've only just realised what you said here. You don't remember I tried to kill you at Brands Hatch?

Eh? What's one of them? Very slippery limited diff?

A fellow Cup owner :approve: Welcome.

Nice write up. Since I got the Omega I'm in love with rear wheel drive. Those BMWs must be fantastic to really drive.

Avoid T1S if you plan on running them over Winter - in the wet they are terrible.

That's right, you can brake later because the brakes are working harder in a shorter period of time slowing the car down by turning all that kinetic energy into heat. You might be on the pedal less, but the pads will get hotter and do more work - venting and/or cooling aside, how much speed...

You live in a nice place.

Interesting stuff! What I can say is that I'm running an almost standard engine - and money spent on brakes has so far yielded the biggest lap-time improvement over and above anything else.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, and that was the track's fault was it? :rasp:

Couldn't agree more. I change mine every 2nd service (so every 12,000 miles) and it's the single biggest factor that can affect how your brakes feel and perform on a track day in my opinion.

I was trying to get the back moving about for fun as you can't really drive hard when the surface isn't consistent from lap to lap. When it went on me I trail-braked a bit too deeply trying to do just that.

They look very nice. Useful info on the studs too. I'm going to do that.