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Other than issues with tyres (nobody has any that I want) I’ve been ready for months. Although it’s effectively a shakedown for the car after completely rebuilding it. 450 mile round trip, all day on circuit and another trackday set up shortly after, what could possible go wrong 😑

Got some new MRF tyres today, took them in to a recommended fitter in Darlington and he’s put a fookin hole in one of them 😤 Ordered a single tyre this afternoon but that isn’t going to get here quickly. I’m proper pissed off.

I occasionally ran my old 182 on E10 when I couldn't get 98/99 Ron on my fuel card. But never purely on it for any long period of time. Rather I'd fill up with E10 and then stick half a tank of Shell V Power or Tesco Ultimate when it had run down sufficiently. Nothing to report.

I’d bought some new injectors and spark plugs from Renault a while ago, but misplaced them. Had a good tidy up in the garage this morning and found them so figured I’d replace these just to be on the safe side. I read a lot about cheap injectors from Amazon and have bought fakes before, so...

My Freddo and Jam is still in the box with my pads so will have well and truly melted by now. They’re a good bunch of lads and they give a damn. Are you going to CSF then?

Yes it was that Car Diaries bloke. He didn’t say who he’d flogged it to, but got his money back by the sounds of things. https://youtube.com/@cardiaries4705

You're welcome. Just waiting on some tyres, so if all goes well I'll be there.

1. DaveDreads 2. JB21 3. Call Me Dangerous Dave 4. Danith 5. Ph1 Tom 6. J-J 7. JP83 8. TRH_Racing (Ali) 9. @The Crumb Master Mini-Me 10. Aldo_87 11. Martin_172 12. Mr Underhill (Jon)

No worries. Invest in some of their Atom Mac. If you look at my RB thread, I sprayed my brand new rear discs and dampers with it before storing it over winter. 6 months later there wasn't a single bit of rust on those discs. I think it's a bit like Lanoguard. You can literally spray it on...

Yeah, it's the sheer hardness of the Epoxy that worries me on certain parts that can flex. If you took a piece of clean steel, coated it in Epoxy and stood it upright in the water, it wouldn't rust. That I'm sure. But it doesn't self-heal. That's why it's cracked on my rear beam. It also doesn't...

I did my rear beam with epoxy directly on the steel and it's started to lift again. I've got another rear beam in the garage which I've been working on and in a few months will unleash on the group haha (sad b*****d). It's going to be a thing of beauty.

Cold weather plays a part as well.

Yes. It's not perfect by any stretch though. I've seen corrosion coming through in 12 months of using it. When you can get parts off a vehicle and really get at them with chemical preparation, the results are better. I'm always checking mine and retreating anyway, so my cars always stand the...

And the ARB needs resorting as that was properly crusty and I should have had that shot blasted.

Yes. Epoxy on pretty much all those parts. The process i used on those parts were: 1. Degrease 2. Descale 3. Deox-c (on really rusty stuff) 3. Hydrate 80 4. Electrox 5. Expoxy 6. Paint (where applicable) The only one that I didn't do was that wishbone stabiliser and you can see how it's...

This is the illustration showing the bolt and bracket (arrow and x). Don't refer to that other thread as he was after the pivot bolt which goes through the alternator. The bolt you are after is an M10. From memory, it was M10X150-65 mm (150 = 1.5 thread, 65mm in length). Part Number was...

I’ve always fixed my own tbh. Renault take your old starter and supply you with a reconditioned one. It’s a bugger of a DIY job though. Have you checked to see if any wires have come off the starter? It could also be TDC sensor. Or a bad connection in the wire or a blown fuse on the battery...

Yes they do. I used it on my rear beam, hubs, subframe etc. It dries really hard. Ideal for steel or alloy. Wurth do a stone guard underseal which can be over painted. Probably better than the expoxy as it’ll be more flexible and won’t crack.

Starter motor by the sounds of things.

Cracking job. Just take your time! Get some Dynax S50 in the seams, behind the rear door cards and inner sills. There's a little sticker on the sill. Peel it back and shove the lance that comes with the S50 in there. It's easy to use, but ugly stuff so just use it in the places you can't see...

And this is mine 18 months later. Took this shot last Saturday after a quick wash down with Atom Mac and dried it with a cloth. I've since touched everything up again so it now looks like the above shot. 1. Degreaser 2. Agitate corrosion 3. Hydrate - 80 4. Electrox primer 5. Aerosol of paint...

I'd go with option 1 and finish the job Renault should have done in the first place. It's barely noticeable with the wheels on anyway.

- 2.00 is about right Jon, should be great on the track.

OPs fault. He never stated which model he had. We're not mind readers. Just good citizens trying to help a brother out.

I think the general consensus was Gtechniq C4. I’ve been using Meguiars Ultimate Black but it’s not long lasting on exterior parts.

Yes.

I suppose it depends how rotten the flange is (that sounds so wrong). This is the same kit. 20 minutes max.

Is yours phase 1 or 2?

I haven’t used Powerflex but did 35,000 on strong flex bushes which were similar grade. They were still tight when I sold it.

They did yes. N/A by the looks of it but a couple of part numbers for you to search on. 8201270548 and 7701416287. There's one showing on Renbreakers here - https://www.renaultbreakers.co.uk/store/Renault-Clio-MK2-2001-2006-Rear-Boot-Tailgate-Floor-Anti-Slip-Mat-Cover/ Not sure if it's still...