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When you get a new bonnet, mount the catches the opposite way so that the button release is at the top. That way, if the latches do release the air resistance should push them down rather than lift them up like they are now. I'm not sure if it actually works, it's just a theory 😂

I think you're right in terms of adjusting both to get the ideal setup.

The rear shims are to alter the toe or camber, or both.

Corner weighing is the best way to see if you have things spot on.

Bet it's fairly stiff on those SPAX 750MC coilovers. The front spring rate is about 14kg/mm 😂

It may need an alignment if it's twitchy to handle. Preload isn't really a thing on linear rate springs i've found out recently.

I think Craig's supercharged sunflower ph1 was 300bhp, rapid that thing!

Been reading a bit more about alignment and suspension setups recently. One thing i came across was some posts from guys who setup race cars, like LMP2 and such like. They had a few interesting things to say which i couldn't quite get my head around until they linked to this video. Pretty...

It should go out. Flashing on ignition is usually key not recognised and solid is a bit more an electrical fault.

You can get the system virginised but that won't help if there's a broken earth somewhere.

Your immobiliser is stopping you from starting. It could be a broken earth wire somewhere.

Turbo position is right next to the firewall which can melt things. A supercharger isn't and it doesn't run off exhaust gases, so not much heat given off apart from the heat it generates internally.

If i was to boost a Clio it would be the supercharger route. Drive like N/A and there's far less heat issues to worry about.

This. I remove as soon as it hazes over.

Turbo will quieten it down a little, yeah.

That's quiet for a Miltek that!

My non-res and decatted Miltek is around 95dB. If you still have the cat in, i'd estimate it to be around 92dB.

It's not until you get on track that you realise what real scrubbing is like 😂

I don't think there is a limit. Certainly 4 times won't be an issue as long as the bead isn't damaged.

Says -7 yeah.

If you don't want to pay for vapour blasting, Eastwood Aluma Blast is also very good. Gives a nice oem finish.

3M foaming glass cleaner is my go to. Just doesn't smear at all when used with the right cloth, a waffle weave.

Timing wise it'll be fine but just a tad too tight.

Well, until the marks line up but as I say it's 9 times out of 10 at the 1 o'clock position yeah.

Yeah until both marks line up. They're not self tensioning like on some other engines.

No, keep going with the engine off a few times until no air or fresh fluid colour comes through. Some have bled these with the engine running but I've never tried it.

Not ment to turn them anti clockwise mate. As Mark says, usually the 1 o'clock position is about where they usually sit. That diagram I linked was just pointing out that 6 and 7 should line up.

I think most are if you heat them hot enough.

Temperature will affect the resistance too. But yeah, at about 20 degrees and new or working one should be around 14-14.5

That tensioner on the cambelt looks to have gone too far. Are the marks defintely lined up?