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Bit of a pain how the buckle is fixed in place. I'd mount them further back really with eyebolts and spreader plates.

Never seen a hole there on any Clio's ive worked on.

Previous engine rebuild at a cost of £4k, what did they put in it! Can forge them for about £2.5k 🙈

Not too bad then. Is it more or less the same degree of adjustment as the 197 cams?

What happens timing wise on the inlet with the dephaser, is there a risk of valve to piston contact?

So 197 cams not really needed then?

It does the same on mine sometimes if i turn the key straight away instead of waiting a second for the fuel pump to prime and then turn over. Give that a try.

This is where 5/6 point harnesses come in to their own with the anti sub crotch strap(s). You need to get the waist straps on 4 points nice and tight before you do the shoulder straps. The adjuster buckle usually sits about half way between the seat side hole and the point where the strap is...

Yeah, 50% of the width. So the sidewall in this case will be 97.5mm Almost 10mm bigger than a 45 profile.

Yeah

Yeah, probably the same with most products mate.

SRP does contain a few swirl fillers, so you won't get a 100% true finish but it's good enough for the hobbyist car cleaner.

But they're a different size altogether though aren't they? Plus single pot calipers and 6 pot will be totally different. You get more even pressure to the pad with 6 pots.

I read brakes, then Wilwood 😞 Having half the disc unused would be pointless tbh, may as well run smaller calipers with full coverage if you're going to do that.

Prefer traditional clay myself, AMDetails clay only requires water for lubrication :up:

If you decide to stick with PAS and it turns out to be the pump, they're not cheap (i know because mine went last year).

Roughly 27k miles round say Oulton Park. I've done roughly 3k miles round there.

Depends on your budget. Low: Yokohama AD08R's, Nankang NS2R's, Federal RSR's Medium: Toyo R888R, Nankang AR-1 High: Dunlop DZ03G, Yokohama A048/A050

You mean wheels or tyres?

33/30 is about right.

Ahh right. That's a first i've seen/heard of leaking from there. Like i say, water would have to be physically driven up into that area by pressure for it to run up inside them.

Here

Yeah, although you can revive them with white vinegar sometimes.

Don't wash them in anything that has fabric softener in either, it'll bugger them up. Either get some dedicated microfibre wash or use bog standard non-bio stuff (liquid, not powder).

Worth getting some decent microfibre cloths as well, because cheap ones will cause light swirling and marring. You want soft and plush ones for paintwork. These are nice and soft: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BK79YUO/?tag=cliospnet01-21

Is your boot carpet wet too?

Very odd if it is because the water would have to be going right up underneath the chassis. Water doesn't tend to run upwards :tongueout:

I doubt it's coming from there tbh, that's the rear beam bracket mounting bolts. It'll be the two black rubber tailgate stops that sit either side next to the rear lights, seal them up.

Megs Scratch 2.0 is more of a cutting compound, so you're more than likely to be inducing swirls just by the nature of it. Think of it like T-Cut. You'll need a finer finishing polish to safely remove swirls.

Not Neros specifically, but road tyres will go off quicker. A good half a dozen laps at pace round Oulton will see the understeer coming in. Can still have a good day on road tyres.