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As far as I know it's so that the head of the valve can be made from a more resistant material and is then welded to the stem. High revs cause vibrations and strain due to the speed they are moving, so they separate at this weld. Supertech valves are high grade stainless steel for the intake...

It's actually the valve head they drop most of the time because they are 2 piece. £400 is a good insurance for valves IMO.

Standard valves are shite and probably the number one killer after aux belt taking out the cambelt. Plus with cams, 99% of the time you will be raising the rev limit to get the most out of them. In the danger zone for standard valves then.

Anyone used these? Klin Korea Green Monster. Seen a few video reviews and they look quite special. Designed for the dirty jobs where you'd normally throw away the dirty microfiber after a few uses. These just wash clean like new. Got some to try, so will report back when I've tested them.

The first time it went he was on the way to get the belts done along with 197 cams fitted. Both times have been bad luck, nothing more.

The aux belt being overdue was the first time yeah. It then died again not long after a rebuild.

His engine was rebuilt and lasted 300 miles after £1000+ of work. I'm sure everyone wouldn't be too happy either. Nothing to do with service schedules.

Should go through with a decent blade on it.

O-ring on and pop the shaft in yeah. The wider abs ring is for cup and 182 cup pack. New nut should be fine, but you could use the old one if not too battered.

If you went with catcam 421 or 428, to get the best you'd fit supertech valves and uprated springs. With 438's you can use OEM but for peace of mind i'd fit supertech valves also. That's the way i'd do it.

Only meant to rev to 7200 😂 Mine will do 7800 with the rstuner map on it :openmouth:

Pfff, mine idles at 5k :tongueclosed:

Ahh right, must have been a weak one :confused:

How many times did you hit the limiter the day it went do you think?

As said, pot luck. They like to drop valves for fun with high revs. I tend not to rev them all the way to the limit (power is gone before then anyway).

If it's had a new sensor have you checked the abs ring? You say it's had a new driveshaft? Maybe the abs ring is wrong/broken.

The Honda guys that are racing will be using the MFactory plated diffs, they're not comparable to Quaifes. My Quaife has been perfectly fine on track, as said the only time it'll spin up is when the wheel is unloaded i.e. in the air. Even in snow i've managed to leave 11's down the road.

Not white, but the wheels are :tongueclosed:

172 Cup is guaranteed to have no air con mate. Unless it's one of the very rare ones that had it.

Yeah pretty much.

If you're capable of removing the engine, then you can do the belts yourself.

One thing you'll notice with the 197 Brembo's is that the pedal travel will be longer. I've heard that from a few people who have them. Nothing too major though.

RBF600 doesn't have that high of a wet boiling point tbh. Try Castrol SRF, it's expensive but it has the highest wet boiling point of pretty much all the fluids around. If the pedal is quite long then you also have air. You'll need to activate the abs pump whilst bleeding using Clip or the...

Hunter is only as good as the person using it.

He's let you off by the sound of it.

Use Corrosion Block on them when you get them back from being refurbished. They will stay like new if you top it up every 6-12 months. http://www.acf-50.co.uk/marine.htm

Have you cleaned up the earth wires underneath the carpet/plastic trim at the rear of the boot, just under the rear lights? These rubber gromets can leak. You might be able to follow the water staining down inside to the earth points. Also the connectors inside the rear lights can be a bit...

And the patience of a saint to get the new rubber boot back on the rack, especially on the driver's side.

@f0xy is a whizz with electronic dashes and sensors, he might know.

Looks mega. Can you send the fuel gauge to the AIM as well?