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It'll understeer on any road tyres when pushed tbh, you just have to manage it or go for a more dedicated track tyre.

Hit the bumper brackets with a hammer and bend them up. The buldge is where the fusebox sits on the other side.

Yeah you're gonna need that 😂

Gyeon do a matt range of stuff. Cure Matt would be ideal with it being a spray sealant.

AF Tripple is ideal.

Does sound UCH related.

Still holding up better than 3 year old Fords though :tongueclosed: Seen a few with rust forming already.

Odd place for it to leak, but not unheard of i suppose. It's usually the gear selector that they leak from.

Cracks me up everytime those films.

I think anyway. £500 for belts and dephasher then roughly another £100 for waterpump.

£600 is around the ball park price for the job.

Also found this which confirms what the AP brake guy was saying.

Good video that. Interesting when he says at the end about the transfer layer wearing off after a few weeks of normal driving and that you need to redo the bed in process to get that layer back. Might have to try that because i do notice most of the pads i've used don't feel as good the next...

They are helical diffs just like the quaife. The OP's Honda mates will be referring to the MFactory Plated diffs which are available for other makes. They don't make a plated one for the Clio. The first MFactory ones for Clios were terrible if i remember rightly, way too much backlash.

I'm sure my car would be faster with you driving it .

Only about 65bhp per tonne more than me lol

Helps when you've got about 225bhp per tonne :tongueclosed:

Mine looked a bit like yours after CL RC5's but i think my calipers were sticking a bit. Can just about see the disc here

If the pads are ok, try some scotch-brite or emery paper to clean the discs up a bit.

If you can get it to the Midlands then @NorthloopCup is your man. He did mine and quite a few for others on here.

Whip the pads out and have a look at the material to see if they've crumbled.

Ahh right i get you.

That will be why mate.

Yeah it's a good 70-80kg.

2:10 with AD08R's, Whiteline ARB, H&R Coilovers, Rear seats removed. That was with Harry's Lap Timer. Have also had a 2:07 on the app, but i take the times with a pinch of salt as the 1ghz gps in phones is not very accurate. Not had the conditions to test the Quaife diff or Dunlop Direzza...

Find someone breaking a 172 on here and get the sensor with stub axle included. Just a straight swap then. Can be a pig to get the old sensor out and new one in.

When i weighed my 2118's with Dunlop Direzza on they were 17.8kg. 2118's are around 9kg, so the tyre is around 9kg itself.

Interesting, look to be a catcam product so should be decent.

Yeah just a cost thing really. Not heard of Sinus valves, but the supertech are rated by most of the top engine builders for these engines.