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LOL! We were a few minutes too late to do the pit walk... bloody traffic getting in.

No point padlocking a tent tbh, if someone wants to get in they'll just put a knife through the side.

I see it about quite a lot, it's a 200.

Auto lights?

Warped or pad deposits?

I take it that the phone isn't free with that? If it is, i'm gonna change mine to that. I'm paying that now on T-Mobile for 3G, unlimited data and texts + 600 minutes!

The extra £100 would be worth it in my opinion, even just for less stress the One X is causing you lol.

I'll probably get this when my contract upgrade is due in a few months. See how it compares to my Nexus 5. The dual camera thing looks good.

The tubing that covers the fog light wiring at a guess.

No, the handle bar mounts don't have the recess big enough for a roll bar. There's only about 25mm of recess in them.

I feel sorry for your brother, as I doubt there's anything he can do but claim on his own insurance as you say. Really boils my piss when uninsured drivers get let off (6 Points + £300 fine), they'll be back on the road next week, while the victim has to stump up their excess and lose no claims...

I would have said injector or lambda sensor. Have you unplugged them all one at a time? You did unplug cylinder 3's injector didn't you?

That stuff pictured is ready to use.

Ahh right, that makes sense. Are you doing the bushes on the dogbone? Just thought then, you'll only need to use a vice if you're polybushing it. If you're just replacing it for a new oem one then it's just unbolt and bolt back on.

Not do the oil, filter and spark plugs when you did the belts? Did my dogbone mount yesterday, tried to do it without a vice... top tip, use a vice. I did in the end.

Cranked it over by hand to see if it's right? Coolant is low too!

There's a similar one in Machine Mart to what sbridgey posted. It'll cover you up to 210nM. The rear hub nut WILL need to be torqued to 175nM or the bearings will fail.

Have a look in Machine Mart, that's where I got my wrench from. You'll need a 30mm socket for the rear hub nut too and maybe a T25 or T30 torx bit for the front discs.

You only need to remove the rear hub nut to take the discs off. The front doesn't require that, they're just held on by torx screws.

Mine will do the same if I bring the clutch up too quick, it soon stops though and smooths out. It'll tickover in 1st in traffic no problem.

2.5! Try 5.1L

This. I check mine at least once a month.

There's no way you can make the hub bore smaller than it already is. Not sure you have thought about this very well :p

...but the hub needs to be smaller, not bigger. It's the centre bore of the wheels that need to be bigger.

Having you got the timing tools or borrowing some?

So you want to put spigot rings on the hub to make the hub smaller....

Rear window under the central spoiler brake light.

Smart that Jon!

Why no ST?

Straight is the ph1 mount. Twisted is the ph2... yours is the twisted mount.