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No, drained the system, ran a hose through until clear, filled and bled the system and ran up to temp and drained/vacuumed the system - Rinse and repeat x 4
Oh and @Sir_Dave if you need to do anything like that again on it, whip the front end off - it only takes 20 minutes to remove the bumper, crash bar and rad housing and it gives you full access to the front of the motor
Yes mate, mines all done. It was full of lovely brown sludge. It took me 4 fills and empties (including a wet vac on the block) to get the water to run clean!
3l of Comma G48 Antifreeze and the rest deionised water and it's all good. I have realised my low speed fan isn't working, but that...
Depends how bad the coolant is that's in it now really.
I changed the rad on my MCS at the weekend, it took me 4 fills and empties (including using a wet vac on the block) to get the shitty brown 'coolant' out of it.
You do dilute it, but usually 1:1 ratio. So you have 3l of coolant once mixed with water. You can dilute further, but at 1:3 you are down to about -15 from -36 protection wise.
I'll have done mine before then, I'm using Comma G48 antifreeze in mine I've decided.
@Sir_Dave Nice one, that little lot should sort it out!
What coolant have you gone for? Changing my rad this weekend, but need some decent coolant to go back in.
Do you have any old broadband routers knocking about? I use a second router I had as a wireless access point. You just need to turn off DHCP on the second router, so the main router allocates the IP addresses.
I even have mine set up with the same WIFI broadcast name(s) and passwords, so...
have a go yourself? You could get all the gear for less that it will cost you to get it done by someone.
Depends if you have the time/patience/skill to do it or not though I suppose!
Something like this from Dom @ Shop 'n Shine would do the trick I would think...
I picked up a Makita 1/4 drive impact driver off Amazon last week. As I already have a drill with 2 batteries and a charger it only cost me £55. 160nm too, and I've tested it on the wheel bolts, and it easily get's them to 125-130NM.
Great tool to have!
Be careful using a lump hammer on it, don't want to damage the threads. I had a similar issue at the weekend on my Mini, I used a socket over the hub nut (with the nut backed off), a lump hammer and some heat. It eventually went.
Have any of the cars you have used this method on had ABS? As its a sure fire way to get air in the ABS pump, and without CLIP or similar, you aren't getting it out again.
I'm one of the ones that has Sky Q @ £35 a month, that's for the 2gb main box and a second box, all channels inc movies and sport.
I got the deal last year, at the time they were offering a free TV with the Sky Q packages. I had no need for a TV, so used the online chat facility to negotiate a...
I don't use Kodi myself, I just know folk who do (using decent kit) and they have regular issues.
I have Sky Q (which only costs me £35 a month for 2 boxes and all channels) and VM Vivid 200 BB. I use Plex for downloaded content streaming.
Works well enough for me, and I can't see what I would...
I'm guessing because the clutch wasn't fully engaging/disengaging due to the slave cylinder. Essentially the same as trying to put it in gear without the use of the clutch. Did it grind when you tried to put it in gear with the engine running?
Which filter is going to be original at 65k? Other than the fuel filter all the rest should have been replaced multiple times by now?
Who did the belts out of interest?