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buy better quality extention bars! or use an impact socket onto the torque wrench directly, maximum strength from the tools. then apply progressive force to the handle of the torque wrench, extending it with a scafold if you need to. standard thread on a driveshaft

i was weary of buying a breaker bar because i didnt think id use it. turns out i use it a lot more than i thought i would. comes in handy breaking wheel nuts/bolts etc. and if your into your diy mechanics stuff like bottom strutt mounting bolts and cylinder head bolts are easy with one :) i...

i have superleggeras in renault fitment but theyre 16" :) so they are out there

with variable vane turbos these days on diesels providing no lag at all and with the technology already making its way onto higher spec petrol cars lag WILL be a thing of the past. turbos are the way forward, accept it and move on :) i do like a NA screamer tho :)

ive always wondered this... my job means i work shifts which start 6-3, 11-8, 8-6 appart from the 3 o clock going home time i dont travel in the usual times where it gets busy back and fore to work, so how would they know and why do i bother insuring it on my policy? surely im at no more of a...

anyone? doesent have to be localy, i dont mind traveling a bit :)

cap has to be off otherwise it wil be hard to push back ;)

yeah i understand there are loads of diffrent ways to do it, all have theyre pros and cons. but im currently looking into this dyno idea, being as the engines out and it wouldent be much of an issue to lob it in the back of the daily hack drive it up to somewhere and whack it on a dyno it seems...

i feel the same but it does the job...

no lol, far too tight :p makes no ods where i ask this question anyway as the same would apply if it was a NA car

not if youve crimped them properly in the first place... standard car manufaturers use it because they have machines to do it for them. its easier to have a machine solder than crimp

how can crimping be worse than soldering? crimp and heatshrink, job looks just as tidy and more secure

lol matt id end up doing that if i hadnt spent so much money on it :p anyone know what sort of price range im looking at for an engine to be dynoed?

yeah you need to run it on minerall oil for about 500 miles then do an oil change run it for about 1k then another chage to the semi synthetic stuff. oil changes should be frequent then i should imagine im hoping for 250 bhp at the wheels at about 1 bar of boost. as for driving it normally...

yes basically, setting a rev limiter at about 4k and bedding the rings in etc. takes a while. with the advantages of having an engine dyno do the work for you its easier to apply the right load on the engine than if it was a plank behind the wheel in a car. theres also the plus point that...

hi guys after some help and advice from more experienced people here regarding running a rebuilt enigne in. basically ive been building a F7R (old school i know ;)) turbo engine for a while now (new internals etc.) and it wont be long before i trial fit it in the car, plumb and wire it in etc...

yep! sky have you bummed from every angle!

sticky offside caliper at a guess

lol my bad then. just made an assumtion from other renos :)

number of teeth should be the same... the sensors will need to be ones from a disk axle tho. swap the axle over should be as simple as that

its pretty easy tbh. ive done loads on my megane. should be done properly tho otherwise it peels

cost me £130 to using the 3m stuff on my roof, so similar price i should imagine

ive read in a few places that reno ABS blocks can be a pain to bleed... dont know wether or not its relevant to you?

becuse theres no fittings there for them to be removed and replaced? could just change who whole rear axle lines for braided ones, then youd be cool!

so how have you spaced the flywheel out then? im running an omex managment so this would mean me needing a trigger wheel on the other side of the block bolted to the crank pulley? then id need to position the sensor at TDC (which is a task in itself)?

how much was this to be made? i have a leon 1.8t box lying about that i would ideally like to bolt to my f7r but i gave up on the adaptor plate idea. problems i came across was the starter ring being out of place, the trigger wheel and mounting point for the sensor being completley non...

i live in the south west :P im too tight to do that anyway, id rather invest the money in some patience tbh

bear? :P i will, but ive been thinking about it for a while now so its getting to the point where i need to know :P

bit of a noob question but... what does that flock feel like? it it rough to touch like acoustic carpet? static? soft etc.? never been in a car with bits flocked before and im tempted to do bits to my car

the cup box will fit a non cup but youl probably have to bung the hole for the speedo sensor up. im sure most jc5's have bolt in diffs. cant be 100% sure on that tho