Search results

No worries mate! Yeah definitely keep us posted!

You’ll only need solid lifters if you start chasing big n/a horsepower tbh mate. I’m building one currently for one of my mates and that’s going on solids. Dry sump and 50mm itbs in the pursuit of numbers! There’s a thread I started on here somewhere.

Looks clean mate!

Ah right ok, well it’s not monstrous mileage tbf mate. I’ve had these lifters apart to make a dummy for converting an engine to solid lifters, and I can see how one could fail and stick.

How many miles had the engine covered before the rebuild?

No worries mate. 👍🏻

Flol! I tried ringing you the other day too! 😂

I’m afraid I don’t do Instagram mate. I ain’t down with the kids! 😂

Right ok. Well you’ve either got a failed/stuck tapper/tappets, one of the collets hasn’t swayed correctly, or as @bloke says one of the followers isn’t sat correctly. All my opinion, and I can’t listen to the sound files you’ve put on for whatever reason, so I can only guess at best.

So how have you checked the cam timing but not the crank timing? Did you not put the locking pin in the crank when you checked the cam timing? What poundage rate are the uprated springs? Did you fit them at the correct fitted height?

You’re welcome buddy. 👍🏻

Its fine mate, and it’s stiff because the bearing is new. 👍🏻

Don’t weld it. You’re pissing in the wind and playing with the steam.

Google renfort plate. That will solve your problem.

I’m only a slim chap, so it possibly wouldn’t be an issue for me I suppose. Comfort always wins for me though! Lol!

Recaro Pole Positions are THE most comfortable bucket seat I’ve ever sat in mate. Did the journey over to the Nurburgring in mine loads of times and always arrived at both ends of the journey feeling fine.

Have you googled it to see if there’s any common issues? I had a problem with my K4 Karcher. One quick google and £14 later it was fixed and back in use again.

I’m pretty sure that’s the main one for the ecu, so you need to be checking each one to make sure it’s connected. Volt drop is a good way to test them individually at the ecu plug. You’re looking for around 0.01-0.03. Don’t resistance test them with the ecu connected - you’ll not make the ecu...

The pump and coil pack receive 12v as it’s switched by the earth. Have you checked all the ecu earth points on the gearbox etc? If it doesn’t get an earth it will do nothing.

What you wanting to know about Grp n timing mate?

What do you plan on using the car for mate?

DO NOT USE GL5 SPEC OIL. That post from Mick is actually incorrect for a jc5. You only need GL4. GL5 oil is to slippery and it will kill the synchros.

Yeah plus postage to Slovenia, which tbh, I’m not keen on doing. Best option is to deal direct with Quaife/gripper.

So the Quaife is what’s known as a automatic torque biasing differential, so it sends drive to the wheel that’s spinning, but it never fully locks giving 100% drive. A gripper is a plate diff. This means the amount of lock up the diff gives can be setup according to the desired usage. However...

Nice one mate. 👍🏻👍🏻

Well assuming the jb1 gearbox runs the same size diff as a jb3/jc5, you’ve got a few options. I can supply and fit a Quaife or a gripper. Unfortunately I don’t know if they share the same sized diff. Whereabouts in the world are you mate?

Let me know what colour the oil is when you drop it!

Not anymore I don’t mate. They proved to be as toss as the originals unfortunately.

It’s the clearance between the cams and the journals - same thing you check with the bottom end bearing clearances.

Yeah but has the clearance been measured mate? Those clearances are quite important.