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Cheers all. I got the wheel bags from rofag via ebay a couple of years back, they were reasonably priced at the time but cant see them for sale anymore. Generic wheel bags that look similar are dirt cheap though £5-10 a set.

Long time no update. Still not done much and a list of bits to do before CS festival, thought id better make a start now back from hols. Started with a trial fit of the Technomagnesio champion 201B wheels wearing 235/40/18 Yokohama A048 Medium hard compound semis. Got these refurbed a couple...

My old asbo spec single silencer system on my old kangoo which was 102db on static never got pulled at Blyton so wouldnt worry too much unless its really loud, unsilenced or whatever.

Big old list that! Will go well on track with the roll correction kit and lsd

He had 97 sainsburys super unleaded in when it had all the issues with knock not 95. I guess it was closer to 95 though, and yes the mind does boggle that he was using the cheap s**t as it had been mapped on vpower.

Indeed, i dare say Bmw have tested it well on 95 octane on stock map and the ecu will pull timing/adapt to suit over a period of running, but id still be wary of absolute hard use on 95 as the engines arent cheap. My mate said on that particular day his 140 felt a bit flat but still seemed to...

Id be careful using 95 in the m140i if mapped. My mate had a bad batch of fuel (sainsburys super unleaded as he was being tight) and the engine was pulling so much timing on the dyno as previously mapped on vpower and was very unhappy. The tuner said it would have went bang in no time if it had...

Only f4r i have seen that revs to 9500rpm is the Efiparts drag car. It has a lot of custom parts to do that with an element of reliability.

Ive never heard of them and im pretty much on the door of Newcastle. Only place round here id trust is evotune with dyno dynamics rolling road.

Im not 100% on the immobiliser problems, but have had success leaving the ign on for a while in the past. Download the workshop manual all the info is in there and will point you in the right direction of what to look at.

Middle small relay is the one. By joining the two white wires together it will crank as bypassing it, but the ecu is still locked and circuit not complete so not firing injector or coil. Its prob lost sync with the key for some reason while batt is off, try turning ignition on and just leave...

Solid red immobiliser light indicates a fault. Check the small relay in fuse box under bonnet has not been knocked out of place when removing the battery.

Run it on a dyno dynamics or superflow dyno. Thats what most are mapped on by the top tuners in the uk, so will give a comparison. Ive seen/had some wildly different figures off other brand dynos on other cars compared to the above two. Also trophy is the same map as any other 172/182, if rev...

Got one in the back of my van converted dci. Quality is decent even on the standard carpet and its lasted well with a few years of chucking my surveying gear in every day.

Doesnt sound too bad. As above compression test to see if any internal issues with the engine. If all good just save all parameters on Rstuner and check air temp, coolant temp sensors for any erratic readings. If you have access to can clip, assuming all sensors reading ok, id clean throttle...

Check map sensor readings are around 400mbar on idle, that will give you an idea if cam timing is correct. Also should read around 1000mbar atomspheric pressure with ignition on engine not running. Lambda voltage on pre cat sensor should rise and fall fast over 0-1v scale from memory as...

Looks good, In for updates

Just personal taste i guess. It all works with the red wheels but just a bit too shouty for me for road use. Track or race then game on.

Much better in black mate was not keen on the red

Dried up grease on the input shaft on the gearbox covered in clutch dust can also cause similar stiff clutch as release bearing is hard to slide down it. Infact the last 2 i done suffered from this. Also the sleeve wears on the input shaft causing the surface to be rough and does not help...

Apologies i didnt realise this would cause so much aggro Assumed it was an old high mileage stiff clutch at the end of its lifespan needing a heavy spring for assistance - loading up the release bearing and removing the free play at the end of the pedal when not pressed, on the plastic cased...

Fair dos mate i get where your coming from. In your circumstances if you just want to ease the pedal off a bit then yeah itll make a difference as its a newish clutch. The ones that ive drove when well worn are stiff as f**k, 70-100k miles. Nothing is fixing that apart from renewal in my...

I put a new clutch in all of mine to be fair. Mine was on the original clutch so it was causing gear selection issues which would have eventually knackered the gearbox even though the biting point seemed reasonable. Sold with no issues after 10-15k miles still light. Same with both diesels, the...

Its a bit of a band aid though as ultimately clutch is worn causing it to be heavy, which eventually can cause other issues. Its not going to be as bad as foot sat on clutch agreed but its not the correct way to fix it.

Theres got to be more tension on the release bearing with it pulling on the arm, unless the spring is very weak, which would essentially do nothing.

Email is best just wait for a response as this is usually a busy period for Chris.

Gt turbo clutch is a like a 100kg leg press compared to 172 :ROFLMAO:

Stock clutch only becomes heavy with age and mileage, probably needs changing if your finding it heavy. Id be concerned at adding extra load onto the release bearing with the tension.

EfiParts runcorn.

To be fair id expect fault codes stored on 90% of the modern cars out there if you go probing the obd with a scanner. No point in even looking unless its in limp mode/eml on. If it has been sat for sale for a while batt voltage probably dropped through lack of use.