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That’s the ‘official’ Renault repair to elongate the hole mate. It’s actually the strut top washer/spring that caused the issue. It was rectified with a revised top mount design.

And it still doesn’t have enough f**king volume!! ?

It’s not easy storing all this s**t in my tired old brain you know! Lol

You’re running the roll centre kit, so have an additional 5mm of clearance.

@Nafoff you into mountain biking? Drop me a pm if you are. ?

I’m pretty sure they’re all the same in ph2, with the exception of the cup o/s driveshaft, as it doesn’t have the bearing that attaches to the back of the block. Abs rings may be different on the 60mm spacing hub setup though, so more teeth. Certainly rings a bell, but can’t say with confidence.

Wahey!!! Well done mate! Goodbye money, spare time, hair etc etc etc ???

Go with option 1 but don’t clean them up spotless. Just remove the high spots.

I’m afraid those cam journals are fucked mate. There’s only one place that I know of that can machine the journals and it’s a good way to spend £500 easily. The issue with cleaning them up is the increase in journal clearance, which can and does result in a reduction of oil pressure. But, I...

It’s running a pms 7.25” clutch/flywheel combo now, but I’m pretty sure they’re the same 2.9kg weight that the one I had fitted was. The engine was built for this kind of car/box combo too.

I mounted my gen90 solid without issue.

As above mate. I’m in Lichfield Staffordshire.

You’ll need to keep a close eye on oil temps too mate, as it’s in a completely different environment to what it was in when installed in my cup. Saenz steel rods will also be worth a consideration for longevity imo.

Great results there mate! I’m over the fuckin moon! Always knew it had more in the tank as it was mapped on what was the hottest day of the year at the time. Couple of important things to note though! It’s not specced for 250bhp. It’ll need the steel crank, rods and solid lifters. Potentially...

I’ve got one that I can supply fully rebuilt mate. It’s the correct box for your car too.

That engine is, in my opinion, one of my finest achievements in terms of what I’ve built over the years mate. My cup was the culmination of what I’d learned over the years too. You’ve definitely done the engine justice with what you’ve built too mate. ?

You should see some more hp out of the old girl tomorrow mate, as it was mapped on the hottest day of the year at the time! Still sounds fuckin epic too!

Not anymore mate no. All that stuff went a long time ago.

R3 maxi evo.

Hi mate. Afraid I have nothing. Everything was done from inside my head.

The Evo 5 & 6 are probably one of the only cars I still love the look of. That and S1 Rs turbo’s!

The supertechs are still only a friction welded valve. It’s just higher up where they make the join when compared to the original Renault valves, so this could be a reason why they’ve failed. What valve springs are you running? If the seat pressures are too high, that won’t help.

£260 delivered from me for one. A proper 2.9kg ttv one too.

Hammer + blunt prybar + whack = pulley spins and becomes free and easy to remove. ??‍♀️

No mate. You need it plugged in on the car and powered up to communicate with the ecu.

Honestly mate, you won’t have longer pedal travel on a cup mc and Brembos. Mine were f**king awesome on my cup, and properly hauled the speed off. I was using ds1.11’s.

At least that makes 2 of us then! ? no progress on this atm. Still finalising all the outstanding details/specs.

Right, so with your car being a 182, they all have the 130 box. The speedo reading is taken from the abs in the 182’s and late 172’s. However the 172 cup, and early ph2 172’s run the 129 box with a speedo drive on the gearbox. A 182 can run either the 089 found in the ph1 172, or the 129.

I can supply and fit both of those diffs cheaper than anyone else mate. I can also supply a diffed and rebuilt 130 box if you’re interested?

Couple of ‘interesting’ gearshifts in there. Nice to see they still can’t build a decent gearbox.