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Right, ph1 upper inlet is different to the ph2 182 upper inlet. The tank vent valve on the ph1 is fed into the breather plate, then back into the inlet. The 182 doesn’t. Easiest way around it is mod the ph1 inlet to accept the fbw tb as the bolt pattern is different. Blank off the fuel tank...

Flol! Nope definitely not adding one of those, and at only 3mm thick, it’ll do next to f**k all. Girdle plates need to be thicker than that to reduce the twisting forces.

Let me know a spec and I’ll be able to give you a rough idea of the cost mate. Expect ££££’s though as they aren’t cheap to build.

Thank you for the kind words mate.

It’s going to be a slow build mate. Got a lot of details to finalise, but happy to keep updated.

Not quite mate, but not far off. Lol

Well there may be spec changes along the way mate tbh. I personally want to see some good numbers out of this one, so this will be a thorough and thought through build.

Flol!! It’s basically a f4r 738 engine found in the 182. The rest of what can be seen in the picture is from left to right: Properly ported 738 head Custom grind cams Cam cover Block and dry sump plate There’s also a trumpet sat on top of the dry sump plate to give a perspective of their size...

Which bit mate? Afraid not. The throttle bodies on this engine are sized for proper hp though.

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There’s a handful out there running dry sump tbf mate. I’m afraid this is being built for a mate.

And so, here we have a very interesting little challenge! Spec isn’t going to be disclosed, but I think the picture speaks for itself that it’s a bit different. Cams are a custom one off profile too, of which no one knows the spec! Lol! Knobbly yes, and a bit of measuring and calculations will...

You don’t need a vac line to a fpr on a n/a engine mate.

And I can vouch for this as I speak from experience - £2.5k bill for a driveshaft failure! ?

Unfortunately I’ve never had any dealings with a scenic shifter. The ones I’ve seen are modified to copy the original shifter lever, so you may need to use a short shift pin.

Just found this whilst perusing YouTube! Proper rally cars and none of this wide arch big wing b****cks that you see in the WRC now. Proper.

I used mahle bearings in my engine. Not a massive fan of the race type bearings. You need to machine the block for the tags, but that’s only a small amount of the work that needs to be done if you’re aiming for reliability. That engine of mine was around 12:1 compression ratio, so still...

Yep, as above don’t bother with it as they are absolutely s**t. Depending on what reconditioned box you’re after, I may be able to help as I’ve got a couple I’ll be refreshing and selling.

I have the following: E2 - earth F1 - signal L3 - 5v supply Looking at your picture above, the black and white wire (middle wire in the plug) should be the signal, so F1. Just going through my wiring diagrams now that I did when I carried out the conversion.

Sorry mate, completely forgot to look out the wiring for you. Right so here’s the wiring pinouts that I ran: Pin 79 gen90 - pin 1 phase sensor = earth Pin 74 gen90 - pin 2 phase sensor = can signal Pin 78 gen90 - pin 3 phase sensor = power supply 5v. Hope that helps mate. WhatsApp me if you...

It could be the rear main oil seal, but it could also be the rear main cap as well. Both are a big job to do, with the latter being the biggest of the 2.

Yellow circle is your driveshaft boot/seal. Blue circle is the casing join that’s leaking. Only way to sort that is to take the box apart and reseal it.

Coil pack may be dicky too.

1) Throttle pot = throttle potentiometer mate. 2) yeah that’ll be because there was no oil in the hydraulic lifters 3) 4th cylinder not running I would assume it’s injector not firing or no spark?

No worries mate. We do lots of different stuff to other people, but it works and it’s proven itself over and over again. I actually had to remove the shims on my oil pump as the pressure was too high! Lol! 118psi cold! ? Ashley’s engine is another one that’s made cracking oil pressure.

Yeah that’s it mate in either way shape or form. We do more than that with them and we also fit restrictors in the block to head oil drilling on a full build.

When you say the oil pump mod, do you mean the shim on the oil pressure relief valve?

It all depends on how healthy the engine is really mate. I’ve seen them as low as 11psi on hot idle!

google bmw egr mate......? Well it’s over £6k realistically mate. It would need a refresh or check over at the end of a season too. Checking cylinder compression throughout the season is key as it may need re ringing half way through to maintain performance. There’s over £1400’s worth of block...

Warranty & egr cooler. They’re the 2 most important things I’ll say mate.