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Somebody might have programmed it out on the uch. Does the airbag light come on with ign ?

Yes mate i have clip. Central locking should fire up straight away wonder if uch is damaged ? I had one that said boot was always open..i think somebody had swapped immobiliser chip to a mis matched uch.

It will fire up and run if you fit the Uch/Ecu pack and matched key from the breaker. You will need to reprogram the uch with clip if any unwanted lights appear on the dash. I imagine the asr warning light will be on and the serv light. The ecu in front of the handbrake is for airbags. Keep...

First one probably didnt have ported head not many people spend the dollar getting it done. Get a health check done on current one, compression test and serviced/belts changed if not done. If belts have been done and depending whos fitted the bits might need the timing checked - as when out it...

In for comments, my kangoo needs one. Radio reception is terrible now i have changed headunit. Changed full aerial wire no difference !

Use clip to activate the abs block whilst bleeding.

Use a bigger hammer and hit it harder.

Coming together nice now, engine bay finished apart from custom catch tank which is on order. Up and running but not without a fight, fuel had gone off badly. Wiring next !

Belt it on the underside so the balljoint goes up a little and frees off the rust, bit of plus gas penetrating oil, old flat ended screwdriver to open the slot up a little then belt it out. 5 mins job done

I bet its quite hard to correct oversteer without any pas. Does your epas feel a bit numb ? My dci has a dead spot. Ill prob go epas on mine for ease, would really like to do a hybrid hpas with electric pump as the oem hpas feels great to me.

Looks great on the black 2118s. Im in the same situation with the hpas on my kangoo, the pipework is about shot so need to sort it asap. Cant decide whether to fit epas or go for a hybrid hpas with electric pump a bit like the cup racers. Its awful with no pas from the tow or 3 its had lol

I see these were in the Clio cup gen2 parts manual. Any good for track use ?

Save your money mate they do nothing to increase performance. A new set of oem Renault leads will last miles longer. I binned a set of magnecor, fitted crap and causing random misfire. They have always been a let down no matter what car ive tried them on

Took it out Sunday and give it a fair bit of abuse and seems ok. Guess we are ready for another trackday if weather stays mild !

Stick to the PS3's. Yes they are not as good as ps4 but the best road tyre available in the correct size of 16". Not really suited to track use but the XL sidewall are decent.

Job done and running again. Only done a short run in it to the gym the other night but it seemed ok. Will take it for a decent flog out soon and see how it holds together ! Needs a clean badly front wheels are black with brake dust after Croft. In other news i give my omp helmet a makeover...

Job done. Bolts are countersunk M5x0.8 and 20mm long. Not the worst job to do, hopefully permanent fix. Quite a bit of endfloat in the diff, spacer shim is fitted and same thickness as the snapped one. I checked a spare low mileage jb3 and it appears to have the same large endfloat so assuming...

That should drill out a doddle with good drill bits. Cutting fluid and patience required, dont bother with the easi out shite, when they snap your in a whole world of pain.

Plate fitted & bolts threadlocked. Fingers crossed this does the business ! Going to give the threadlock 24hrs then fill it up with gear oil.

Drilled & tapped the diff in situ for the renfort plate today. Not too bad a job with the small sealey drill i borrowed, new drill bit went through it like a knife going through butter. Had rags stuffed in the box to keep the swarf from falling in and will flush oil through. Will fit plate...

Prob worth scanning it with clip and see what codes are stored. Will give you an idea where the fault is.

Up in the air yesterday & stripped That will be the issue then broken spacer Got my battery drill out and no chance of fitting it in the gap available. Have borrowed a small drill will revisit later on in the week weather permitting.

Stripped down and ready to fit. Ballache to get in with a drill. Have borrowed a small drill see how that goes.

Ive noticed a weep from most f4r crank seals clio or meg and at low mileage. Does the crank wear bad on these and can you get away with moving the crank seal slightly to accomodate for wear ? Ive not had the pleasure of doing a crank seal yet but looks like oem tool is needed to save damaging it...

Steering angle on squib might need resetting. Oem wheel or aftermarket? Check it has the notches on the wheel/boss that turn the squib.

You can lose the uch on ph1 setup no bother, however if you want the obd port may need it unless you can wire it up on its own.

I think you might need to get the immobiliser done on ph1 ecu but not 100%, somebody will be able to advise. Apart from that fairly easy to wire up, seen a few r5gtts fitted with ph1 setup.

Standalone ecu will be grand or ph1 172 ecu and wiring loom for simple wire up. On both setups you will need ph1 cable throttle setup.

Ive seen this back in the day mate good to see it out and about. Whats the plan for rewiring just tidy up?

Ive had a garrett fail with a pop and f**k loads of smoke back in the day, exhaust impellor sheared off on full boost. I still cant believe most of the clio turbo kits run ching spec cheapo turbos on them. Bang a garrett on and enjoy reliable boosting (well reliable turbo anyway ?)