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Cheers mate. Yeah it was certainly a nice surprise to see the numbers keep rising like they did - especially when you consider how hot it was as well. And not an itb in sight. :wink:

I need to find some good local roads round near me so I can show you its 'full' potential! Lol

Cheers mate. Not sure when it's 'ring time just yet, but we have a few dates in mind. Yeah it's not bad at all! I will do later on in the week mate.

Yeah watching the numbers keep on rising was good fun! Thanks mate.

Cheers. I never give up - I just have an extremely short fuse. Lol

Cheers mate. Have no fear, it's gonna get some stick for definite! Cheers mate. Been a long time coming! Thanks mate

Cheers buddy!

Cheers Tim! Yeah it's going to be interesting.

Itbs are a dirty word in this thread mate!! I'd say it would probably do a higher peak hp figure, but it would lose torque due to the runners being shorter. Here's the spec list of my engine. Genuine R3 maxi forged pistons. Genuine R3 maxi rods. Genuine R3 maxi cams. Genuine R3 maxi...

Yeah I'm very pleased with the end result tbh. It's done more that I anticipated as well tbh - not bad considering I started out 'just wanting 200hp'. Lol :up: Thanks mate.

Cheers mate. Appreciate it.

Thanks. Just got to keep it singing in the revs and it'll go well. Going to tescos to do my weekly shop, it might not be quite so entertaining though!

Forgot to mention - cooler ambient temps would've seen more power. No ifs, no buts. Fact. I'm reliably informed that it could've been entirely possible to have seen another 10hp. How true that is, we will never know.

Right time for the final instalment!! As I mentioned previously, a vvc engine is mapped backwards in comparison to the conventional way of building up the rpm and mapping through the load sites. This meant that the engines potential would be seen within 6-10 dyno pulls. Scoff then set the...

Grab the back of the inlet manifold and try to pull it towards you as hard as you can mate. Look out for any movement. Gear linkage is a doubtful one tbh unless you've moved it at all recently? If not, discount it, but check the linkage for free play at the gearbox end from underneath...

Hour and a bit. :up: Cheers mate!

Boxing up hubs and building Quaife diffed jc5's mate! Lol

Well there's only a few things that'll make it jump out of gear mate - excessive movement, incorrect linkage adjustment or the gear retainers in the box.

I'm busy! Lol! You'll all have to be patient! Update will be about 5:30. Ish.

You need to be checking your engine and gearbox mounts along with the dogbone mount/bushes. If they all check out good it's an internal box issue.

Ast top mounts I assume. Unless he's modified the cup wishbones for a bit more.

Lol! I was on my break at work so didn't have time to fit it all in. It'll be later on mate.

Ok so it's time for an update. Last weekend kermit was loaded up on to the back of my mates flatbed and taken up to EFI Parts in Runcorn. It was time for Scoff to work his mapping magic and get to the bottom of the intermittent starting dramas. Mapping was originally booked for the following...

@incy-spider which one have you got mate?

Have you got the crank locking pin for when you do a cambelt? If you have, fit that mate. Otherwise, just give it a damn good thrashing. I've never known one that hasn't started spinning relatively easy once they've been given a tickle tbh.

Nah don't worry about it mate. If it's stuck that fast that you need to stop the crank spinning, you'll more than likely damage the pulley anyway tbh.

Seen this loads of times. Get a blunt pry bar or chisel etc, and place it in the half round where the cambelt teeth sit. Give it a couple of taps on the end of the pry bar with a hammer and it'll start to spin free. Spray some wd40 or the like where it sits on the end of the crank and it'll...

Put a resistor in the plug for the carbon canister and it'll go away mate.

Something like this is what you need @Fletcher https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/320995816919

Awesome!!