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Cheers mate. That's the plan! Lol! It can sit and rot mate before anything like that happens!! Cheers though buddy!

Cheers mate. :up:

Nothing to update on the cup I'm afraid. It's caused some quite large amounts of frustration recently when trying to get a safe map on it. I've now walked away from it instead of kicking every f**king panel in! In other news, this bundle of joy will be arriving in October. More to come. :cool:

If I manage to get there in July and you guys are out there I'll take you and @Fletcher out for a passenger lap mate. Show you lines/bravery etc. :wink: Yeah unfortunately it's a track where experience and track knowledge is key. The turn in dots have probably gone then now mate. They were...

8:35 is a very respectable lap time mate! A bloke who was staying in the same hotel as us ran out of fuel one year and joined the Bonngard club. He was in a RS4 and when he started his lap the fuel light was on..............he was also a smug prick, so I took great delight in taking the piss...

Never mind the write up and pics! We need videos man!!

If you are starting from scratch mate, I personally would pipe it all in with a bias valve. The compensator is piped up as a diagonal braking circuit, so it can cause headaches when you decide to get rid of it, not to mention money and time wasted!

You can drill and tap the original diff with the box in situ, but you need to stuff a rag in the gap, then smear it with grease to catch the swarf. It's not a 100% clean and safe way of doing it, but that would be the way I have and would do it.

From past experience, when the seals in the master cylinder have been pushed the wrong way, the pedal doesn't usually go hard when there's no servo assistance. It just remains spongy.

I don't think they need seam welding personally as they're quite a stiff chassis as they are. Once you add the cage it becomes really noticeable as well, or at least it did with mine. I've got one of the Clarke mig welders and it's a fantastic bit of kit for the price. It's the 160TE I think...

There's a specific sequence that you need to follow when bleeding the brakes up on these mate, but I don't know it off the top of my head I'm afraid. The only other things I can think of off the top of my head are that the seals have been over pressurised by the eezibleed and turned over on...

No mate, you don't need the circlip or the spacer/washer. Throw that in the bin.

Not bad! :wink:

Having the oulton Rs day in April was ridiculous imo. It's cold and usually crap weather, so I don't understand why they moved it from its usual August date. Unless it was cost related of course, which no doubt it was.

Yes it will fit fine. The down pipe runs far to close to the brake master cylinder though. You'll need a lot of heat shielding.

Nah not enough ignition in it tbf. Lol yeah I agree!

Not long enough! Lol! It's ridiculously close though now to starting when warm.

Lol not quite! Nor the dog!

Guess what's been running again after you left!

@krappy I'll reply later on mate. I've been a bit too busy to reply the past few days.

What readings you getting?

@SharkyUK i know more about this engine than most people know! Lol! I speak to Steve pretty much every night on my way to work so we chat about all sorts.

Good guess tbh mate. I've tried to get in there before, but i don't know what hoops to jump through. How did you get in out of interest?

Its a 197 inlet on a Megane 225 head mate. Different port profiles. The weld is there to strengthen up the flange after it's been machined to suit the 225 ports. That's just how it is when you convert the 197/225 head to run on a 172. The 8mm bolt for the tensioner is in a different position on...

JLR?

I don't have a cut off switch on mine I'm afraid.

More overlap = lower cylinder pressures mate FYI. :up:

@Gerben Visser yeah sport/race cams will affect the dynamic compression ratio. It's all down to the overlap. That's how mine gave a lower reading on Grp n cam timing compared to when it was standard timing. Nothing changed - just the timing.

No mate you only do the oil in the cylinder test to see if it improves the reading. If it does the rings are worn basically.

Did you drop a spot of oil in the bore as well when you did the readings?