Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
EFA! Lol! I've built a few performance engines now and a lot of it comes down to careful measuring, patience and research.
Using cheap components can also be another way for an engine to fail.
If it's the standard ecu plug you lift yellow piece up and it comes off. That allows you access with a terminal tool. Lift the tab, then give the wire a gentle pull. Hey presto!
All the other plugs are just your standard junior timer/power timer plugs, other than a couple of oddballs like the...
The more frustrating thing is that to change the seal with the box out only takes about 40 minutes!! I may have another solution to the problem that I'm looking into though!
On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being the worst and 10 being not so bad, I'd safely say it's a 1 mate. I can do the seal for you if you want, but it's 100% a box out job mate as you are aware.
I know but I've got a sweet tooth! It does stop you getting colds though. f**k ready brek - jägerbulls ftw!
Yeah it makes you realise just how big the airbox is doesn't it. The loom normally suffers in the areas where you get a lot of flex/engine movement mate. The plugs also get brittle as well.
The majority of the cup loom is fucked tbh mate. The constant heating up and cooling down does them no good and just makes them brittle.
I forgot to upload this earlier as well! Got an aerial shot! Lol!
So a few bits and pieces done again today. I've made a CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) template for the ecu mount. This will also combine as a support for the base of the airbox. I'll be taking a trip to see a mate to get the aluminium sheet needed for this next week.
So whilst doing a bit of...
Ah right ok. Yeah me too mate. I've had no choice but to use braided hose for the fuel line, but it runs under the car so it makes sense to use it. It'll more than likely get heat shrink applied to it though where it's on show in the engine bay.
It's all about experience mate imo. To build a high performance motor requires it as there's so many little things that you can overlook. However, f4r's are a bit of a w**k engine whatever guise they're in!
What covers are they mate? I didn't choose to go with braided hose because I don't like the stuff. It rubs through stuff and it's a bit of a wanker to make the pipes up.
This stuff is much easier! You only need a sharp blade to cut it, then it's just a case of pushing it on to the fitting.
It's just open mate. You don't need the thermostat when you've got the coolant passing through, plus these cars warm up very quickly which is a real bonus.
Done a bit more on the cup over the last couple of days. Adjusted a few bits and pieces so that the gen90 will now sit on top of the gearbox mount/battery tray. Still not 100% on keeping it here, but until I start laying out the new loom I'm not gonna know for sure. Tight like a tiger in there...
No mate no longer available I'm afraid. My original cup engine was dialled in on Grp n timing (I have a tool) and it went very well tbf. Midrange torque was the main area that was improved upon over standard. It also gave it a bit of legs up in the top end, but nothing massively noticeable...