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I think I'd sacrifice one of my vents if I fit one.

Mine was definitely not that expensive when I bought it! Think it was an introductory offer at £380/£400

If only it was that simple mate!

Ouch.

Lol yeah I forgot to paint the selector lever! It's a bit late for painting it now!

Cheers. Yeah it's starting to take shape nicely now.

That's looks alright there. It's in the drivers eyeline as well which helps.

If you've got a leak coming from that bush and not the selector, you've got some issues mate. There's nowhere for the oil to leak from as it's just a recess that the bush sits in.

Thanks! :smile:

Any pics of where you've mounted it mate?

Finally had some free time today so I've managed to get the gearbox built up and ready to throw in the hole. Few pics for anyone that's looking in on the thread: All shafts in along with selector shafts: Then on with the outer casing: On with the shorter megane 5th gear: And finally, on with...

60 tonne press and gtfo. Soon sorted out the men from the boys. :smilingimp:

I would imagine that you'll be able to tell just from looking at them mate. The body of the tube nut will be physically bigger.

If you remove the power steering pipes off the rack first whilst it's still in the car you can remove the rack without dropping the subframe.

Assuming that they're the same size ball mate, yeah fit the stiff shift and happy days. Very easy to strip the old unit and for a new one as well. You won't be disappointed let's put it that way! @Yanoo will be able to confirm if his kits work with the scenic shifter

A good quality oil will stand oil temps of 120 degrees for longer periods than you think tbh. Also, don't be worried about running your oil temp at 100+ degrees as it actually helps to burn off the condensation that enters the oil from the engine. That oil cooler is serious overkill though...

If I were you I'd whip the crank out to see if it's spun any bearings. That'll near enough confirm if it was a pressure issue or not mate.

You need -10 hose and fittings for an oil cooler ideally.

This is exactly my memory of R5's as well! Lol! Majority of the ones were either tungys or the navy blue raiders near me with a token white one thrown in the mix.

Yes they do, but I can't remember the part number!

That's the bit you need to loop mate.

Hmmm maybe they don't then mate. Might do you one as a one off though.

I think your only options are k-tec or Btb mate in stealth systems. I personally opted for the Btb and its fapping awesome imo! Not loud at all in my stripped out cup, but gives off a nice note. Mines decatted as well and it's more than acceptable on long journeys. Only downside to it is the...

Stiff shift 1 is all you'll need. Just get the brass bushes as well. Done

Yeah that's fair enough mate.

@MicKPM one for you buddy.

I'm wondering if you could convert your box to the taper bearings now? You've got the casings to do so, just means a bearing change basically.

That's w**k! So f**king frustrating that they change the designs of these things.

This is most annoying!! I've seen the circlip bearing on a 130 box, but only the input shaft. Never seen both like it. Did Martin say if you could convert the circlip held bearing over to a taper bearing setup? It just means it'll need to be shimmed up for preload.

These are going to be my track wheels mate. 16" turinis for the road and 16" superlegs for track. No plans for caliper upgrades either. Means you have to run spacers, of which I'm not a fan. I'm on it! Can't rush perfection though! Lol Yeah it's don't on the spring rates mate. I still run arch...