Search results

There's the reason your so close then if they're et43. You'll be fine with a 10mm spacer.

I think James runs 5 or 10mm spacers up front with et37 wheels 7j 15's, and as you've experienced it's serving him very well! What's the offset on your track wheels? No mate I don't run any spacers. The reason my car is so wide is because of the additional track width on the hubs. I'm 5mm per...

No mate you need a heavy duty electric terminal. I can supply one if you can collect one evening next week?

They're m8 terminals mate. Be careful though as they usually snap out of the alternator body when you undo the nut. Piece of s**t design!!

My first cup nearly went up in smoke as a result of that very same fault! Alternator terminal corroded and gave up = me considering pissing on it to put out the fire whilst frantically pulling the battery terminals off!! I ain't no contortionist neither! Lol

3 degrees negative camber works well up front and 2.5 degrees rear works well too. I f**king hate spacers with a passion though. To me they're the anti christ. If you go too wide they ruin the scrub geometry on the front end and upsets the handling as you have to dial out the change in scrub geo...

Your welcome Keith!

182 cup hubs are totally different to the 172 items. They have a larger bearing and the spacing where they bolt on to the damper is 60mm measured from centre to centre. The 172 items are 54mm for reference so you do t get ripped off.

Sounds to me like you need a set of bilsteins or kw's then mate really. If your suffering oversteer now and rear arb is the last thing you need as well. What tyres you running?

I don't think the ktec coilovers are designed with track use in mind tbh mate. You'd possibly be better off buying gaz coilovers if your on a budget. Other than that your looking at about 1k for premium coilovers (kw's bilsteins Ast sportline 1's) Whats your purpose for the car? Track car or...

Or in lay mans terms, spend £2500 on the right things and your laughing. That's for brand new stuff of course and includes fitting and setup of geo in that price.

Sportline 1's.

You'll end up with quite a substantial increase in toe in mate if you add 1.5 degrees camber. I'd estimate anywhere between 2.5-3.0 degrees of toe in.

I'm not sure what you mean about the 5mm bit mate? Are you meaning wheel spacers? Camber shims are for the rear beam mate and they fit behind the stub axle where it bolts on. This adjusts the angle it sits at and as a result changes your camber or toe angles. For the front camber to be...

You can't see the wanted ads because your not a full member mate. It's worth paying the membership fee tbh. Regards the hubs, the 172's all had the same hubs. The 182 cup/cup packed/trophy had different ones. They all share the same bottom ball joint as well so it sounds like yours has got an...

Agree wholeheartedly with this!!

I think you've done the right thing tbh. I have the entire lower dash, cup holders, lever surround and handbrake surround still in mine. Had everything flocked when I got the dash done.

Yeah that's not a cup item I'm afraid mate. The ends on any sport bar don't have those flat pieces either.

That's nothing like the arb I've got on my cup. What's the diameter of the bar? It should be 25mm for the majority of the length and 23mm on the ends iirc. It it looks like it's had one from a non sport fitted tbh.

That looks to me to be just the standard type of hub nut you get with most wheel bearings. The bits with cut the outs grips on to the thread of the driveshaft to stop them coming loose. The washer that spins on the nut is to spread the load across a larger area and allow the torque to applied to...

Looks good mate! Not thought about rubbing back the paint to expose the Renaultsport writing on the inlet? It would just break up the black a bit. You could always paint it pink to match boost hoses?

Your welcome pete!

Now you mention it, I'm pretty sure that James said something about a tilton being the only available/suitable bias valve other than what was run on the cup racers of course.

So when you say standard Renault map are we talking original ecu?

Who mapped it out of interest??

If your on a cup you need everything in that list except the alternator. You remove your p/steering pump and lines, the original column and the rack if your fitting a dci item. Then it's a case of fit the column, control box fitting and wiring in and rack assuming that's the option you choose...

I'm not to sure that the generic bias valves lower the brake pressure enough tbh. I'm pretty sure James looked into it.

No is the simple answer. If you bypass it you'll end up with full braking effort going to the rear. The compensator valve is set to a preset value to stop this happening.

If the TL4 box is anything like the JC5 it will only wear out the dog teeth on the gear (the expensive bit to replace) rather than wearing out the softer synchro ring teeth.

It'll rev even higher with a 197 box fitted mate.