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Are you saying you've got the nuts off the back for the cap head screws? If so, put the nut back on so the thread is flush with nut and give it a whack with a copper hammer or a pin punch. Either that or support the disc and hit the bell. You need to be central when you hit it though. Oh and...

That's fair enough mate. I ain't one of the last of the late brakers anyway so that's possibly why I've not suffered any issues.

Can you iMessage me a pic of your geo sheet? Can't see it clear enough on here. If the numbers positive it's usually toe in. Negative means toe out. If you've got 54minutes of toe in on the rear, you've got a lot of toe in as well! You ideally want toe out up front to.

I run ds2500's with no issue mate. Sure your not getting them confused with ds3000's as these are the ones I've been reading about leaving deposits.

I'm on the pop mate so I'll reply to this tomorrow. Lol!

Ah ok fair enough mate! Every days a school day!

Drop me a pm or give me a mention when you've got your geo results mate.

It all depends on how straight your beam is tbh. There's a huge tolerance range on the official figures to allow for any discrepancies.

Jenvey do them. MR23 is the part number iirc. It's for itb's though not dcoe's.

You need to know what the rear geo is before you can say really mate. I'd say you'll not be far off tbh, but it all depends on how straight you're rear beam is. I'd leave the rear toe as toe in by 1-1.5mm if I were you. If you run it parallel or toe out you'll end up with quite a loose rear end.

No worries fella.

To check the steering arms for play jack the car up and hold the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock. Give it a shake from side to side and see if you can feel any play. It may well only be a small amount mate, so it could prove hard to feel at first. If in doubt get someone to shake to wheel whilst you...

Jack the car up and spin the wheels. Your looking for the tyres bobbing up and down to make sure they're not out of shape. Also look at the rim to make sure it's running true. A wheel balancing machine should pick that up, but they're only as good as the individual that's operating them. Also...

I'm not a fan of ph1's but I love this car. It's a real credit to your attention to detail.

Are all the mating faces clean? Its worth checking.

The thread pitch is m7x1 mate. Can't tell you the length though I'm afraid but I'd guestimate they're about 12-15mm long. A bit of silicone at the gearbox and cambelt end would be fine. It's for where the main caps/front cover join the block. Other than that the oe gasket should be up to the job.

Pagid blues are worth a shot as well mate. The downside is they're near as damn it £200 a set!!

Ds3000 leave a lot of build up on the discs mate. Do a search on here it's been covered a few times.

Knowsit!

Surely the ecu needs an air temp sensor?

You'd be surprised at the noises they make mate and how soon they disappear! Laddo at works golf used to rattle it's bag off ticking over until you breathed on the throttle and it stopped. Left idling for another 30 seconds or so and it started up again. R26 R setup is the best way forward imo...

Are they the same sensor as a 1*2? I have spares available if they are! Lol

Did the inlet temps raise whilst it was sat idling dan?

Ah! Thanks for pointing that out I didn't realise.

G172 on here will see you right. You can't see him in the traders area though as your not a fully paid up member. It's worth the few quid tbh. @g172

What pads are you running? They may have left some pick up on your discs giving the feeling that the discs are warped mate.

The key is getting the taper from the butterfly to the valve opening correct. That's where the hp can be found. Also, big ports don't mean big hp. Quite the opposite in some cases.

I use a manfrotto clamp and the gopro adapter for mine. It's the b****cks!

Valve size is a restriction as is the shrouding of the valves. Other than that it's doable. You need to spec the itb's right though imo.

No mate it will be fine. You'll find that you can add more camber with the roll centre hubs fitted as they push the hub out by 5mm at the bottom.