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What track we going to then? :tongueout:

I've been out for a long drive today @Ph1 Tom - a collection of items was made and returned back to my house all safe and sound:up:

Need a head to head!

Shed! Lol!

It was! Very! You could use all 3 lanes on the m1 when the boost hit 2 bar!! Lol

I had a mk3 astra gsi with 440lbft of torque that used to enjoy troubling your arms. Sadly it troubled the inner wings and bulkhead and caused them to split! Lol

There's the confirmation then! Thanks for the info. I wouldn't personally bother with all that effort of cutting the plenum open to port it anyway. You'd be better off doing something along the lines of an rs2

Silly question Neil, but have you tried lubricating the bearings on the spherical bearings and the steering arms?

It's an inherent fault in the design of the plenum mate. If you cut it open it might be made better with some porting/smoothing but it's never going to be perfect. It's also not designed for ultimate performance either so you have to make compromises along the way.

Nah it's the plenum that's the issue.

The standard throttle body isn't as much of a restriction as the 1*2 inlet manifold. That's the real enemy tbh.

It's all about how it makes it come on boost mate. It will be slightly more aggressive due to the profile of the inlet cam. The only person I know of that's fitted 197 cams in a turbo motor is chip. He doesn't come on here anymore though, but if you can track him down he will no doubt be able...

Personally mate I'd sell your 197 cams and use the money to go towards the turbo conversion. The standard 172 cams seem to work really well when boosted. If you really want to use the 197 cams, I'd fit the inlet cam and retain the 172 exhaust cam. Obviously the 197 inlet cam would need to be...

Mine will be standard 197 inlet (just ported) ported 197 head, cams and high comp for a net result of around 230hp. Max rpm 8k unless I change to maxi evo spec top end and steel rods and crank. It is doable for not a lot of cash as well. You've just got to be prepared to hold out for the stuff...

Ashford motorsport have a video out there for a 279bhp n/a f4r and I'm pretty sure they've cracked 300+ hp. Not cheap though!

I'm pretty sure that the cupra ones are lug mount whereas the meggy/Clio brembos are radial mount.

Ouch!!

If you get the mapping right and there's no det you'll be fine at anywhere up to 12:1-12.5:1 I'd imagine. It's all about keeping the cylinders cool and having no det though. You'll be running a fine line on a Renault cast piston imo, and that's based on how many f4r's you see that have suffered...

Depends on if your happy to run that compression ratio on a non forged piston I suppose. It all comes down to the mapping.

Your calculations are pretty much bang on mate as from memory they take a 172 up to around 12.2:1

The catcams kit just holds the cams in place and allows them to be timed in as there's no cover there at all. At the horseshoe end there's a adjustable horseshoe that allows you to then replicate the desired cam timing position with the cover on. I've got a cam cover with holes in it that can...

The f4r is a pig to dial the cams in on due to the cam cover holding the cams into the head as well. You need to be able to access stuff and get the dti in there to do it properly and the only option available currently is the catcams kit.

197 crank I've got has a key way on it but it's a simple machining job if it doesn't.

Don't forget you need the adapter plate for the oe crownwheel and that's welded on to it (that's the additional £180 on the invoice). I get these for £1095 delivered and that includes the adapter plate and your crownwheel welded on to it. All you have to do is post your original open diff to...

Going off who and where it was mapped (RS Tuning) I'd be more than confident that it's a sensor issue tbh. It's running on a gen90 as well tom.

Maybe they've changed the design then as these were only fitted about 2 months ago and I believe they were brand new.

Interesting because the b14's I fitted recently did have!

Bilsteins have a slotted top hole in the damper casing to get you more camber mate. Have you tried adjusting them there?

Loctite 518 for sealing the cam cover fella. That's what's recommended by Renault.

Cups had wider track front and rear. They also had increased caster which was done on the wishbone where the bottom ball joints bolt on. The increased track width comes from a different subframe to push the wishbones out further and different offset wheels. I'd possibly do the wishbones for...