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Its about time they did them!

There not the nicest of jobs to do on your back and a lot easier if on a ramp. I did mine on my back and it took about an hour from start to finish, so that includes jacking it up and back down. Stainless bolt will be fine as iirc the originals are only 8.8's anyway.

The block is different in terms of the water pump is in a similar spot to to where it is on the xe, but as for if the block is stronger to avoid flexing issues I couldn't say chip. The block I had, had no main cap tops so it was disposed of.

No problem mate. I live in Swadlincote. About 15 minutes from Donington.

Yes mate I'd imagine so. Bring me your block and I'll drop my 197 crank in it if you wanted to know 100%.

Yes mate bore and stroke are the same on them (as in 1*2, 197 or meg225) but the block casting is different on the 197 to a 172. It's stuff like the bell housing bolt pattern. Yeah maxi engines were high comp pistons, heat treated original rods, lumpy cams and a fancy exhaust manifold. Head...

It's 1.5kg lighter than the standard 1*2 item mate.

197 block and f4rt have the water pump driven by the cambelt Morgan for reference. You need to drill and tap the 197/225 head to accept an idler roller like the 1*2 has to make the head work on a 1*2 block as well. OP as Morgan states, the R3 maxi engines do indeed make the numbers, and that's...

I'm still trying to source that 197 crank for you mate. I've not forgotten.

Difficult to say without seeing the car at its current ride height, but it will be out. Mines currently set ridiculously low anyway so it's possibly not representative tbh.

I've just measured mine from the same reference points and it comes in at 314mm.

Yeah that's fair enough. I wouldn't personally have them welded on, but it's worth a go.

I thought they were 17mm tbh chip on the Clio but I'll stand corrected. Either way to open it up to 17mm isn't an issue though. The only bit that concerns me is the extra leverage adding to the elongation issue. This is what I've been discussing with my machine shop. We possibly have a solution...

Sorry mate don't have any to hand. It burrs the edge and creates a ridge. Very obvious once you see it.

If it was that easy, everyone would be doing it mate.

That's what I've already got chip, but it's more a case of if they will still elongate the bottom ball joint hole. I've had quite a few sets of hubs delivered to me already that show signs of that happening even from the standard joint! That kit we've done is obviously more radical to overcome...

I only fitted them because the front wheels just look lost in the wheel arches when they're lowered! Drove it maybe 100 miles and tried different geo settings to try and overcome the change from neg to pos scrub, but all to no avail. Removed and sold on! Oh definitely because ricecar mate! Flol...

In short mate - no it can't be done. You'd have to completely redesign the bottom ball joint and rest assured that would cost £££'s. The only possible option you've got is searching through a host of parts books from a factors and look to see if there's anything that's similar (possibly mk2 golf...

Ah yes........reading fail on my behalf there.

Throttle body off a ph1 has a different bolt pattern to a dbw throttle body as well doesn't it?

Where are you getting the angled spacers from? The ones Jenvey sell are are SF bolt pattern, unless there's some others on their site? Or are you having them custom made?

Remember you've got to fit an air filter/box still mate. You'd need a custom fabricated to accommodate the curve on the trumpets.

Flol yeah I'd forgotten about that!!! I'll have a measure up on mine later on and report back.

How low do you run the front of your car Sam? If you use the same way you'd measure a dirty girl, how many fingers can you get in between the front wheel and the arch? I run mine very low and I can only just about get 2 fingers in (1" 1/4 ish). Only reason I ask is it will give me an idea of how...

Lol yes just a bit! In that case I maintain my original recommendation, and I'd be tempted to go straight in for the kill with a 500lb rear spring. What is the actual issue your suffering or experiencing Sam? Apologies I've only skim read :S

Scrap fitting the angled spacers. They're all SF flange but the ktec dth bodies are what looks like dcoe where the trumpet bolts on. You can possibly buy adapters, but f**k that for a laugh. It'd cost a fookin fortune.

My kw's have 330lb front springs as standard and they're a bit too soft for track work as it allows the front end to roll over itself a bit, but on the back road lanes near me it's very composed. I'd be very tempted to up the fronts to only 350lb. So am I correct in understanding that you have...

What spring rate are you wanting to run Sam?

Had any splitter synchros gone in them yet?

^^^they do 2 pedal opticruise now mate. Much better box than the other one.