Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
IP settings are configured correctly. They match the settings on the iPhone (apart from the IP address obviously). If we can confirm the iPhone is using WiFi rather than cellular data then it's safe to assume the wireless adapter is FUBAR'd or there's a driver fault.
If it was a duplicate IP...
Try this:
Open a command prompt.
Type the following: netsh int ip reset then press enter.
Configure the wireless adapter to automatically detect settings.
Remove any third party wireless software. You only need the driver installed, Windows can handle the rest.
Reboot.
See if it works. If...
^ That's only relevant if you've got some way of automatically configuring proxy settings for client machines configured on the network (e.g; WPAD / script). If you haven't (which he most probably won't) then it's absolutely pointless and will simply cause IE to take a while longer to load its...
Spotted it parked up as I nipped to the cash machine at around 2:30pm yesterday. FL55 KZV IIRC.
Didn't see any CS livery on it but I figured there's a high chance it's someone off here?
If you buy a standard spec one they ship within 24 hours because they're stocked in the UK.
When I ordered mine I spec'd it up a bit. It took 6 days to turn up from China.
Nope. I have a Gizzmo MS-IBC which has been configured with a low and high boost setting.
Closed loop = high boost (boost controller manages and corrects boost up to 1 bar ATM)
Open loop = low boost (i.e; set up to run off the actuator only, so about .6 bar)
EDIT: And what do you mean by...
Most probably. I haven't actually driven a supercharged Clio yet but I do have a mate with a supercharged GTi-6. The power delivery is completely different and I had noticed they make more power than a turbo running the same sort of boost.
As above. Around 230bhp is possible at around 0.5bar with the KTR low boost kit.
Most people bum supercharger conversions these days, hardly anyone seems to go down the turbo route anymore. Not sure why though, perhaps they drive better?
Yeah I had a look under the car the other day. It doesn't look difficult to remove the mount.
Jack up, support engine, remove mount, take bushes off, fit new ones, re-fit mount, lower car?
How hard are the bushes to press in? Is it something that can be done by hand or would I need to find...
Is that just for the bushes or the whole mount with bushes attached?
In fact, do you even need to replace the mount or is it just the bushes that need to be swapped over?
I think I may be in need of a new DB mount / bushes.
Very common feature of the cars. Mine's the same - in low light conditions the doors look like a slightly darker colour than the wings.
Don't quote me, but I think they're all like it (Icebergs that is).
If the nurse fella needs to perform some kind of admin related tasks but isn't knowledgeable enough and apears to have malicious intent, remove his admin rights immediately and use Active Directory like it was intended - delegation!
If he needs to reset passwords for example, delegate that...
I don't think I've ever seen a Ph2 172 or a 182 without a door lock on the passenger side.
My 53 plate also had ESP, CC / speed limiter, CD changer etc. In fact, it was no different spec wise to a 182 apart from the usual stuff (exhaust, stereo etc).
I think he might mean clear side repeaters.
Ph2 172's originally came with orange side repeaters but later ones were clear.
Mine's a 53 plate and they're clear. I've seen 52 plate ones with orange repeaters but I don't know if they were all like that?
EDIT: In fact, there's a guide in the...
Start with a Ph2 V6 and stick a twin turbocharged Ferrari / Lamborghini V12 in the back.
Add an additional fuel tank in the front (it'd need it).
Then some fat wheels and tyres, huge brakes and handling mods to suit.
Oh, and Silvervisions.
To be fair, it's a standard exhaust. They're crap. Mine looked fine for months then the backbox just detached itself suddenly one day.
Get yourself a decent stainless aftermarket system - a standard one will just break after 30,000 miles tops. If you want it hidden you can't go wrong with a...
As above. Sounds like the power jack on the laptop has become detached from the motherboard. It'll need re-soldering unless the motherboard is badly damaged, in which case that could need replacing instead.
Don't use any third party software to manage your wireless connection. You don't need to,
Windows comes with its own built in wireless configuration utility, anything else is just going to sit on top of it and probably cause issues, plus it's just one more piece of unnecessary software to slow...
You'll need to configure the laptop to output to an external monitor. As Ronnie says, it might be a secondary function of the top row of keys. It's usually Fn+F5 or Fn+F6.
You might be able to go into your graphics properties to do it as well. See if you've got anything relating to your graphics...
They're the points at which they're pre-engineered to break after about 5 years. Well... that's where mine broke anyway.
AFAIK, all the 1*2 standard springs have them. Maybe it's where they should be compressed when removing them?