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Cars never come up in the colour and spec you want second hand when you actually have the cash, then you buy something else and then the one you want comes along normally in two's ;) - Sods law - Good luck !

If I had been of an age where I could have purchased a William brand new I would have done so, but as it was the 182 was the car around when I was, bought it in the colour and spec I wanted so would not change it.

As above there are compounds to remove defects from glass but it will deform the screen.

Whatever comes to hand to be honest the yellow Megs branded ones or just generic yellow ones.

Scratch does not sound like it will come out to be honest. VW Paint is fairly hard to correct so for a test panel first but chance are you will need the light cut pad and Intensive Polish. Scratch X would be a non needed step. I would do: Light Cut Pad - Menz IP Polishing Pad - Menz Final...

Kosovan boys rock, just ask Brazo!

It is a bit like T Cut in its make up, it has a strong cut no matter how long you work it, is strong enough to go through clearcoat even by hand, use with care. It should remove light marks, but may install very fine swirls that the SRP should remove in using it.

Doing it is one thing, posting videos of it on the net is a tad schoolboy though!

Just wash as you would when it is waxed, lambswool mitt to bucket method, just be very careful drying this is where most defects come from, blot it dry with towels to avoid wiping it dry if need be.

Spritz of quick detail spray. Tarnished ? -Try some AG Super Resin polish on them.

Drop Brazo on here a PM, he is fairly close in Wilts.

Cool :)

Will they be offering a version with conventional looking welded on tail pipes ?

Seeing as Brazo has just done your car Final Finish on a polishing pad should be fine! The process you list for your mums car sounds like what you will need on any real amount of swirling, though I tend to use Menz Intensive Polish rather then the SSR 2.5 these days. Re. Speed 6 on the PC I...

If you have not got any form of cover and the car gets dirty between coats I would wash it, if you can keep it cleanish and nothing more than light dust just give it a wipe down with some quick detailer.

I would use a foam applicator to apply it as the first method.

I apply it with a foam hand pad. A small amount on the pad should do a panel easily - apply it as thinly as you can so you can hardly see where you have been, anything you have to remove is just wasted excess product.

The problem with the AG as with the removal of the flys also removes any wax or sealant the time. On well sealed and waxed paintwork a normal wash should remove them, the pre soak towel method is a good bet if not.

Jeffs AGT is spray on and wipe of straight like a QD spray, no cure time and danger of it being a pain in removal that you can get with EGP if you use too much. You can also do multiple layers in a day rather than have to wait 12 hours between coats.

The AG Shampoo actually seems to be well lubricated, makes a very slick wash solution just lacks suds. Ditch the Chmpois for a drying towel Scratch X before SRP. SRP x 1 normally, EGP x 2/3 - 12 hours apart, or once a week after your weekly wash for a few weeks. Same for the wax apply 12...

Problem with the Rimwax is it contains cleaners so strips of the sealants below or previous layers. EGP base topped with Poorboys or Swissvax wheel sealants here.

Awesome stuff EGP like but as easy as a QD.

Will be very difficult to polish out, if AG Glass Polish does not work, there are kits to remove them but most deform the glass. A new screen is usually the only way to sort them...

It is like EGP but in a spray and wipe form http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb214protect.html

Use a milder polish or something like Meguiars Scratch X to sort the marring the crappy T Cut always induces.

I would only clay if the paint feels like it needs it - if still smooth just use the Paint Cleanser and Re Wax.

Rotary will always produce better results once you have mastered it. Though to get a wax ready flawless finish by Rotary is a art. Lots of people use the Rotary to correct defects and then the PC to refine the finish.

I would use the Menzerna Intensive Polish rather than SFX 1 but that is just me! SFX 1 and then Menzerna Final Finish would be fine though.

I would not use one, or the back of the Megs wash mitt either. Just pre soak with a damp towel as discussed on here the other day and then a noramal mitt and shampoo will remove them.

The Menzerna range will give a better Gloss/Finish. I have no issues with the Sonus defect correction ability.