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Requires a bit more elbow grease then T-Cut due to the nature of the product. A couple of applications at least may be needed. Make sure you work the Scratch X until there is nothing to remove residue wise as this will mean it does it's job properly. I have seen a few threads on here saying it...
T Cut is an old fashioned abbrassive and cuts the same from application to removal which means it can leave in swirl marks while removing deeper defects.
Scratch X however is a more modern diminishing type abrassive which breaks down as you use it. When you start working it the cut is stringe...
My fave combos on Black
Wash and clay as needed.
Then either
1 - Working by hand.
Megs Scratch X as required
Autoglym Super Resin
Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection or Jeffs Acyrlic Jett Trigger Selant
Chemical Guys 50/50, Swisswax Onyx or Swisswax Best or Show wax depening on budget
2 -...
Try and get some 2500 or 3000 grit as that may help
http://www.cleanandshiny.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductID=10086
May make the polsihing stage a touch easier.
You have knocked the orange peel back by the looks of it but caused a mild haze in the sanding. What grade of wet and dry?
Yeah just keep polishing with the Scratch X till you get the gloss back. You could use something more abbrassive to polish but must are better suited to machine application.
Depending how much flatting you did with the wet and dry you would/may need to spend some real time with the scratch X. I use Menzerna Intensive Polish by machine after wet flatting by machine and even that takes some time.
Depending on how well polished the paint is before the SRP and EGP will depend on how much difference the Show Car Glaze will make.
I was a little dubious as to if the 7 would remove layers of selant and wax but I have been using it on mine between layers of wax and it seems to be fine.